Getting back on the Camino to Finisterre today felt really good; it was strange not to be out in nature for two days. I'm finding that I feel more at ease in the rural villiages than the big cities, too. Probably because it's less likely I'll get lost, ha!
The 22km (14.3 mile) stretch I walked today was absolutely gorgeous, particularly as I climbed the hill out of Santiago toward the forest. When I turned and looked back, the entire city was sillouetted against the sunny sky, the massive spires from the cathedral crowning it all. It was a fairly epic goodbye to all of the friends I left behind in Santiago. Another gorgeous section was walking through a town called Burguieros that had a magnificent bridge crossing the Tambre river. Pilgrims were flocking down to the water to swim in the section just before the river began cascading as a waterfall. Quite serene.
When I arrived at my destination today, I was ridiculously hungry because I hadn't stopped for lunch, opting to munch on an apple and some almonds I had in my pack and power on. As luck would have it, I discovered today is some sort of holiday and all of the grocery stores are closed...lovely. The cherry on top: I went to several bars and restaurants to find some chow, but none of their kitchens opened for food preparation until 8:00pm. I still can't quite adjust to the different timetable for meals in this country, even after three weeks!
Despite my tardy departure from Santiago at 9:30 this morning, I was the second peregrino to roll into the albergue today at 3:00pm. As I write this at 10:00pm, there are still people showing up, which is amazing to me. Even though only 5% of pilgrims continue on to Finisterre, securing lodging can be tricky because there are fewer albergues and the ones that exist are so much further apart. I hear it's quite competitive to find a bed in the next town, so I'm going to leave early tomorrow morning and hope for the best!
I guess I never really described what a pilgrim albergue is like, did I? Picture a sleeping porch at a fraternity: a large room with an obscene number of bunk beds, but B.Y.O. sleeping bag. These areas are almost always co-ed, and usually first come, first pick. I prefer this system...when they assign beds I am always relegated to the top bunk since I am young and "graceful". Please, there is no graceful way to climb into a bunk bed, and getting down is always precarious. These structures are almost always covered in people's wet clothing in the hopes that it will be dry by morning. At night the room is filled with a symphony of snores, dream-induced babbling, and nighttime flatulence--earplugs are essential. Bathrooms are usually seperated by gender, although in some of the older, lower-end albergues they aren't. If you're lucky, there will be three showers and three toilets per 40 people. I guess the fact that it's so much like college makes it do-able for me...plus the 10€ or less price tag is quite attractive. It's one hell of a lifestyle, though!
I realized today that I have 4 days to kill after I meet up in Santiago with some friends from Quebec that I made while travelling in Morocco. Upon having this epiphany, I made the spur of the moment decision to book a hostel in for two nights in A Coruna, a coastal town in the region of Spain I'm currently in that has several sandy beaches. It sounded too good to pass up, and I can get a train or bus there for pretty cheap. Plus, my tan lines from all this hiking are really horrendous and must be fixed...but my body is in much better bikini shape! :)
I hoping to make it to the coast in time for the World Cup final on Sunday...that would be a cool place to watch the game. The question is can I put in 65 kilometers in two days...?
Abrazos,
Kelsey
Friday, July 9, 2010
Santiago! (aka: the city of many reunions)
After two weeks and 202 miles, I arrived Wednesday in Santiago de Compostela--the grand finale of the Camino de Santiago. The atmosphere in this city is buzzing with tourism because this is a holy year; just as I arrived at the cathedral and began to take it all in, a group of three Spainish girls asked if they could take a picture with me. Confused, I asked why...to which they responded, "We wanted a picture with a real pilgrim." Hilarious.
After settling in and getting cleaned up, a bunch of us reunited to watch the Spain vs. Germany match at a bar in the city center. It was really neat, almost every person I befriended along the way showed up for a huge camino reunion love fest. The Germans I was with were quite disappointed in the final outcome, but my did the Spaniards go crazy! Drums and horns and parading around in the streets yelling...it was pretty wild.
Due to the celebratory atmosphere, my friends Ralph and Daragh (from Germany and Ireland, respectively) and myself decided to go out Spanish-style, bar hopping from one place til the next until the nightlife stops. Which ended up being around 7:00am. Let's just say I slept in pretty late the next day...
Thursday was a laid back, low key day to wander around the city and pick up my compostela, the certificate verifying completion of the Camino. While at the pilgrim office, I ran into a lovely young woman named Veronica from Texas whom I had met at a few different points along the way. She and I ended up grabbing lunch and trading stories on the camino and life. It's really strange--and a bit sad--to realize that I'll be meeting all of these people, sharing a unique experience with them, and then likely never seeing them again. Not quite sure how to feel about it all just yet.
In the middle of the day a bout of "tormenta de verano" (thunder of summer) shook the city and led to pouring rain. The busy city came to a standstill, people huddling under eves watching the city get soaked, waiting for the storm to pass. I loved the sudden downpour; the huge drops and abruptness of it all reminded me of home. I walked through the streets Washingtonian style--sans umbrella--and let myself feel like I was in Seattle or Bellingham or Olympia again for a moment.
As for now, I'm off to start the next (and final) leg of my camino journey: Santiago to Finisterre. It's just under 90km and should take about 3-4 days to reach my final destination, the lighthouse on the edge of the coast that was believed to be the end of the world in mideval times. The symbolism of this endpoint is much more poignant for me than the cathedral at Santiago, which is why I opted to continue. Plus, if I'm going to commit to walking across much of Spain, I may as well walk until I hit the ocean!
Hope you are all enjoying the beautiful sunny weather in the states (or in WA a least)!
Lots of love from NW Spain,
Kels
After settling in and getting cleaned up, a bunch of us reunited to watch the Spain vs. Germany match at a bar in the city center. It was really neat, almost every person I befriended along the way showed up for a huge camino reunion love fest. The Germans I was with were quite disappointed in the final outcome, but my did the Spaniards go crazy! Drums and horns and parading around in the streets yelling...it was pretty wild.
Due to the celebratory atmosphere, my friends Ralph and Daragh (from Germany and Ireland, respectively) and myself decided to go out Spanish-style, bar hopping from one place til the next until the nightlife stops. Which ended up being around 7:00am. Let's just say I slept in pretty late the next day...
Thursday was a laid back, low key day to wander around the city and pick up my compostela, the certificate verifying completion of the Camino. While at the pilgrim office, I ran into a lovely young woman named Veronica from Texas whom I had met at a few different points along the way. She and I ended up grabbing lunch and trading stories on the camino and life. It's really strange--and a bit sad--to realize that I'll be meeting all of these people, sharing a unique experience with them, and then likely never seeing them again. Not quite sure how to feel about it all just yet.In the middle of the day a bout of "tormenta de verano" (thunder of summer) shook the city and led to pouring rain. The busy city came to a standstill, people huddling under eves watching the city get soaked, waiting for the storm to pass. I loved the sudden downpour; the huge drops and abruptness of it all reminded me of home. I walked through the streets Washingtonian style--sans umbrella--and let myself feel like I was in Seattle or Bellingham or Olympia again for a moment.
As for now, I'm off to start the next (and final) leg of my camino journey: Santiago to Finisterre. It's just under 90km and should take about 3-4 days to reach my final destination, the lighthouse on the edge of the coast that was believed to be the end of the world in mideval times. The symbolism of this endpoint is much more poignant for me than the cathedral at Santiago, which is why I opted to continue. Plus, if I'm going to commit to walking across much of Spain, I may as well walk until I hit the ocean!
Hope you are all enjoying the beautiful sunny weather in the states (or in WA a least)!
Lots of love from NW Spain,
Kels
Monday, July 5, 2010
Quick update!
Hello everyone!
The last few days have taken me to cities that don´t boast wifi, so I haven´t been able to update from my ipod, and the swarm of new pilgrims who join the camino in Sarria means that all of the internet cafes are completely occupied. In order to receive a compostela (the certificate signifying completion of the Camino de Santiago), one must complete a minimum of 100km by foot or 200km by bicycle. The influx of people changes the tone of the camino drastically, but I´m trying my best to roll with it. Not everyone has several weeks to dedicate to this beast, and 100km is better than zero km of physical activity in my mind :)
Last night for Independence Day I had cheap beer (albeit Spanish beer) and a hamburger in honor of my home country. An English man at the bar ordered a cup of tea to be ornery, but it was all in good fun. I spent the evening talking with a group of fellow English speakers from Ireland, South Africa, and Germany. I love practicing my Spanish, but it was really nice to have easy conversation in my native tongue with folks my age.
As far as the Camino goes, here are the stats:
Distance Covered thus far: 283.0 km (175.8 miles)
Distance remaining to reach Santiago: 42.3 km (26.3 miles)
I cannot believe how far I´ve pulled my body across this country. It´s been quite the journey! I´m looking forward to having some time to decompress and evaluate it all when I continue out to Finisterre (on the Atlantic) after Santiago; there will be WAY fewer people and after the fanfare of Santiago. I´m looking forward to the experience in town at the end of the Camino with the other pilgrims, though. It´s sure to be unlike anything I´ve ever experienced.
I´ll try to provide a more coherent update in Santiago. In the mean time, sending lots of love back to the US of A for all of the amazing things I take for granted (like stores that are open in the afternoon and customer service...).
Hope you are all happy and well!
Mil abrazos,
Kelsey
The last few days have taken me to cities that don´t boast wifi, so I haven´t been able to update from my ipod, and the swarm of new pilgrims who join the camino in Sarria means that all of the internet cafes are completely occupied. In order to receive a compostela (the certificate signifying completion of the Camino de Santiago), one must complete a minimum of 100km by foot or 200km by bicycle. The influx of people changes the tone of the camino drastically, but I´m trying my best to roll with it. Not everyone has several weeks to dedicate to this beast, and 100km is better than zero km of physical activity in my mind :)
Last night for Independence Day I had cheap beer (albeit Spanish beer) and a hamburger in honor of my home country. An English man at the bar ordered a cup of tea to be ornery, but it was all in good fun. I spent the evening talking with a group of fellow English speakers from Ireland, South Africa, and Germany. I love practicing my Spanish, but it was really nice to have easy conversation in my native tongue with folks my age.
As far as the Camino goes, here are the stats:Distance Covered thus far: 283.0 km (175.8 miles)
Distance remaining to reach Santiago: 42.3 km (26.3 miles)
I cannot believe how far I´ve pulled my body across this country. It´s been quite the journey! I´m looking forward to having some time to decompress and evaluate it all when I continue out to Finisterre (on the Atlantic) after Santiago; there will be WAY fewer people and after the fanfare of Santiago. I´m looking forward to the experience in town at the end of the Camino with the other pilgrims, though. It´s sure to be unlike anything I´ve ever experienced.
I´ll try to provide a more coherent update in Santiago. In the mean time, sending lots of love back to the US of A for all of the amazing things I take for granted (like stores that are open in the afternoon and customer service...).
Hope you are all happy and well!
Mil abrazos,
Kelsey
Friday, July 2, 2010
My sorry state in Sarria
To be completely honest, the last few days on the Camino have wiped me out emotionally. I have taken the wrong route at least once every day for the last three days despite consulting my guidebook, asking locals, and clarifying with other pilgrims. Today en route from Samos to Sarria I hit a wall (literally) and had to scale it to get back toward the highway so I at least knew I was pointed in the right direction. Getting lost in the middle of the forest in rural northern Spain is a little unnerving...and it's setting my arrival date in Santiago back a bit. I've covered so many unnecessary, unproductive kilometers.
Almost every other pilgrim I've talked to has gotten lost since we entered into Galicia, too. (Spain is divided into different regional governments; I was in Castilla y Leon before.) The language is a bit different (Galego instead of Castilian) and the signage is confusing at times.
But really, I think my sour mood stems from the fact that I'm feeling a bit lonely. When I stopped to rest and have coffee this morning, everyone in the cafe halted their conversation and looked me over as if I were invading their space. I know my huge backpack and hiking gear make me stand out in a crowd, but this city is teeming with pilgrims with a similar get-up. The language difference here makes it a bit harder for me to communicate with some folks, too. I guess I just felt extra foreign today...But hey, that's a good lesson too.
118 kilometers (about 73 miles) left to cover until I reach Santiago de Compostela. So far, I've walked about 210 kilometers (130.5 miles) and my body is feeling the repercussions...This is really testing my mental and physical capacity.
One benefit of getting lost and staying in Samos last night was having the opportunity to tour the Benedictine monastery, which is the oldest of it's kind in the western world. Listening to the monks chant last night in the jaw-dropping cathedral was pretty amazing; as their harmonies reasonated throughout the enormous building I drifted off to another place.
Goal for tomorrow: DO NOT get lost!!!
Have a marvelous weekend, everyone. Eat some veggies for me...they are difficult to find in restaurants here.
Lots of love,
Kels
Almost every other pilgrim I've talked to has gotten lost since we entered into Galicia, too. (Spain is divided into different regional governments; I was in Castilla y Leon before.) The language is a bit different (Galego instead of Castilian) and the signage is confusing at times.
But really, I think my sour mood stems from the fact that I'm feeling a bit lonely. When I stopped to rest and have coffee this morning, everyone in the cafe halted their conversation and looked me over as if I were invading their space. I know my huge backpack and hiking gear make me stand out in a crowd, but this city is teeming with pilgrims with a similar get-up. The language difference here makes it a bit harder for me to communicate with some folks, too. I guess I just felt extra foreign today...But hey, that's a good lesson too.
118 kilometers (about 73 miles) left to cover until I reach Santiago de Compostela. So far, I've walked about 210 kilometers (130.5 miles) and my body is feeling the repercussions...This is really testing my mental and physical capacity.
One benefit of getting lost and staying in Samos last night was having the opportunity to tour the Benedictine monastery, which is the oldest of it's kind in the western world. Listening to the monks chant last night in the jaw-dropping cathedral was pretty amazing; as their harmonies reasonated throughout the enormous building I drifted off to another place.
Goal for tomorrow: DO NOT get lost!!!
Have a marvelous weekend, everyone. Eat some veggies for me...they are difficult to find in restaurants here.
Lots of love,
Kels
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Lessons from the Camino
After an indulgent night in my own room without a bunkmate or anyone to share a bathroom with, I left Cacabelos well rested and refreshed: clean clothes, clear head, full belly. Since I hadn't stayed at the albergue de los peregrinos, finding my way out of town and back to the camino was a bit tricky. But, after asking for directions 3+ times and wandering around, I stumbled upon one of the symbols I have come to know and love: una flecha amarilla (a yellow arrow).
I thought that walking the camino was going to be going to be a giant metaphor for me laboring to find inner peace with this stage of uncertainty in my life and (hopefully) finding a way through it. In reality, there is also quite a bit of me literally trying to find my way. Especially in the larger cities like Leon and Ponsferrada, it's easy to lose sight of the comforting signs and symbols that you are on the right path: yellow arrows, conch shells, or more explicitly, signs that say "El Camino de Santiago" in bright, bold print. The more distractions, the more options, the easier it is to lose your way. Hmm...I guess the metaphor holds anyway--it just takes on another layer.
That's the beauty of this journey on the camino, everything is a life lesson.
*The less you carry, the easier the journey.
*Work hard today and you can rest tomorrow.
*The early bird catches the worm (and avoids the sweltering heat!).
*Be kind and helpful to others, and that same kindness will likely be returned to you.
*When in Rome (or in this case, Spain) do as the Romans (Spaniards) do--don't let fear or elitism cause you to miss out on an enriching experience.
*Help make things easier for those who will come after you, just as those who came before you did for you. The arrows fashioned from rocks that are left in dubious spots by previous peregrinos help me avoid wasting precious time and energy on a misleading, false pathway.
Many more lessons are sure to be revealed... This is only my 6th day, afterall!
One revelation stands out above anything else for me though: I am stronger than I think I am. This has become my mantra when I feel like quitting...because it's true.
My skin is a bit bronzer (despite ample SPF 70, I promise dad!), waist a bit thinner (despite the cerveza, bocadillos, and helado), and perspective a bit shifted. There is so much more to life than the rat race to "succeed" by American standards. I will always be an American girl, but I hope to carry some of the European outlook on life back home with me to the States.
Wishing each of you wellness,
Kelsey
I thought that walking the camino was going to be going to be a giant metaphor for me laboring to find inner peace with this stage of uncertainty in my life and (hopefully) finding a way through it. In reality, there is also quite a bit of me literally trying to find my way. Especially in the larger cities like Leon and Ponsferrada, it's easy to lose sight of the comforting signs and symbols that you are on the right path: yellow arrows, conch shells, or more explicitly, signs that say "El Camino de Santiago" in bright, bold print. The more distractions, the more options, the easier it is to lose your way. Hmm...I guess the metaphor holds anyway--it just takes on another layer.
That's the beauty of this journey on the camino, everything is a life lesson.
*The less you carry, the easier the journey.
*Work hard today and you can rest tomorrow.
*The early bird catches the worm (and avoids the sweltering heat!).
*Be kind and helpful to others, and that same kindness will likely be returned to you.
*When in Rome (or in this case, Spain) do as the Romans (Spaniards) do--don't let fear or elitism cause you to miss out on an enriching experience.
*Help make things easier for those who will come after you, just as those who came before you did for you. The arrows fashioned from rocks that are left in dubious spots by previous peregrinos help me avoid wasting precious time and energy on a misleading, false pathway.
Many more lessons are sure to be revealed... This is only my 6th day, afterall!
One revelation stands out above anything else for me though: I am stronger than I think I am. This has become my mantra when I feel like quitting...because it's true.
My skin is a bit bronzer (despite ample SPF 70, I promise dad!), waist a bit thinner (despite the cerveza, bocadillos, and helado), and perspective a bit shifted. There is so much more to life than the rat race to "succeed" by American standards. I will always be an American girl, but I hope to carry some of the European outlook on life back home with me to the States.
Wishing each of you wellness,
Kelsey
Monday, June 28, 2010
Hitting a rough patch and rallying.
I could not get out of Riego de Ambros fast enough this morning. As mentioned, there were two of us at the Albergue last night, which is really strange compared to what I've seen thus far. What I thought was going to be a good night of sleep turned into a nightmare when the other pilgrim staying there, a German man in his late 60s or early 70s, opened the door to the room where my bunk was and asked if I wanted to come sleep in his room. I was shocked and appalled, but tried to keep my cool as I said, "No thank you sir, I'd prefer to sleep alone tonight." He proceeded to touch my face and say, "But I'd rather sleep with you." Ugh...so not okay. All of my manners went out the window at that point; I pointed to the door and said, "Please leave. Get out. Now!" Let's just say I slept restlessly last night, as I felt I had to be on guard. It was a bit of a terrifying experience, as I had no one to call for help or backup...but I'm glad I didn't have to do so. I practically sprinted out of there at daybreak though.
The cherry on top was when I finished the rough decent into Molinaseca, I went to pull my camera out of the side pocket of my bag I was in such a rush that it went flying out of its case and both the lens and the LCD screen broke. How is one supposed to record 7 weeks of traveling in Europe without a functional camera?! I know material possessions aren't important in the grand scheme of life, but it was a major bummer. At this point I was physically and emotionally exhausted, which resulted in me crying and feeling sorry for myself for the next several miles.
Somehow, the camino worked it's ambulatory psychotherapy magic on me though, and by the time I reached the beautiful mideval town of Ponsferrada 8.5 miles in to my journey today I was ready to take charge and fix things. Being welcomed to the city by a mighty-looking castle helped solidify my resolve.
In this case, solving problems meant throwing money at them. I decided I was unwilling to go without a digital camera, so I allowed myself to purchase a new, lower-end digital camera for 135€ so I could continue documenting my travels. Tonight I am staying in a hotel for 35€ as well, where I can get a good night of sleep without any harassment, enjoy a full breakfast tomorrow morning, and have my laundry done for a few Euros more. Washing my clothes in sinks is fine, but every now and then it's worth it to pay for a proper washing. I also found a functional voltage converter down the street for 1€, which means I can ditch my current one that weighs nearly a pound and doesn't work in most outlets. Lastly I was able to buy some fresh vegetables, which I've really been missing. Spanish cuisine includes alot of ham and carbs, but not a ton of veggies.
There were so many emotional fluctuations today that it feels as though more than 18 miles have been walked and more than 16 hours have transpired. As for now, I'm going to take a moment to be thankful for all the good fortune that I have, and then enjoy a long night of uninterrupted sleep. Let's hope, anyway!
Lesson learned: Don't mope--it doesn't solve anything. Take control, be proactive, and do what you can to shift your perspective. Ride it out, and th situation will likely improve.
Wishing you all a less emotional Monday! ;)
Abrazos,
Kelsey
The cherry on top was when I finished the rough decent into Molinaseca, I went to pull my camera out of the side pocket of my bag I was in such a rush that it went flying out of its case and both the lens and the LCD screen broke. How is one supposed to record 7 weeks of traveling in Europe without a functional camera?! I know material possessions aren't important in the grand scheme of life, but it was a major bummer. At this point I was physically and emotionally exhausted, which resulted in me crying and feeling sorry for myself for the next several miles.
Somehow, the camino worked it's ambulatory psychotherapy magic on me though, and by the time I reached the beautiful mideval town of Ponsferrada 8.5 miles in to my journey today I was ready to take charge and fix things. Being welcomed to the city by a mighty-looking castle helped solidify my resolve.In this case, solving problems meant throwing money at them. I decided I was unwilling to go without a digital camera, so I allowed myself to purchase a new, lower-end digital camera for 135€ so I could continue documenting my travels. Tonight I am staying in a hotel for 35€ as well, where I can get a good night of sleep without any harassment, enjoy a full breakfast tomorrow morning, and have my laundry done for a few Euros more. Washing my clothes in sinks is fine, but every now and then it's worth it to pay for a proper washing. I also found a functional voltage converter down the street for 1€, which means I can ditch my current one that weighs nearly a pound and doesn't work in most outlets. Lastly I was able to buy some fresh vegetables, which I've really been missing. Spanish cuisine includes alot of ham and carbs, but not a ton of veggies.
There were so many emotional fluctuations today that it feels as though more than 18 miles have been walked and more than 16 hours have transpired. As for now, I'm going to take a moment to be thankful for all the good fortune that I have, and then enjoy a long night of uninterrupted sleep. Let's hope, anyway!
Lesson learned: Don't mope--it doesn't solve anything. Take control, be proactive, and do what you can to shift your perspective. Ride it out, and th situation will likely improve.
Wishing you all a less emotional Monday! ;)
Abrazos,
Kelsey
Sunday, June 27, 2010
The climb up from Rabanal this morning was breathtaking. Rolling green hills as far as the eye can see dotted with wind turbines, wildflowers everywhere, blue sky...the landscape appears to have escaped unscathed from mankind's actions. The camino is a wonderful way to see a very different side of Spain. The tiny mountain villiages I've been staying in make Madrid look like a different country entirely!
Climbing uphill is a workout, but I really don't mind it. In fact, the first 5 miles this morning reminded me of hiking in the Pacific Northwest: battle your way up a steep incline and you'll be rewarded with a hell of a view. It was fun to make the trip with Alex and Owen too, the Irish gentlemen from last night. Go figure: we discussed politics, the separation of church and state (or lack thereof), and gender roles...You know, just the typical lighthearted banter that arises while walking an obscenely long distance in the heat.
The only problem is that what goes up must come down, and the decent today really did a number on my joints. I don't usually have such a fast inflammatory reaction, but my hips, knees, and ankles were screaming at me today around mile 13. The path down from the peak was steep, covered in loose fragments of rock from the eroding hillside, and carved in a bit of a "V" shape from water runoff from mile 7 to mile 15.
Due to these conditions, I had to be extremely zoned in to the ground in front of me to ensure I didn't break an ankle or tumble down the mountain. The 26 pounds on my back coupled with the task of setting the pace (and pathway) for the two Irish fellows I was hiking with certainly didn't make matters any easier. I made it through the toughest decent, but opted to stop short of my goal location by about 2 miles because my body was yelling at me. When I first turned up at the albergue in this tiny town I was mad, in pain, and feeling a bit ill, but after a shower and a 3 hour nap my body and spirits improved. Also, I'm one of only two people staying here tonight, so I'll be able to catch up on precious sleep. I'm taking it as a silver lining, and I'll just try to make up the lost ground tomorrow...it's much flatter terrain!
Of all of the pilgrims I have interacted with, I've noticed that I'm the only woman traveling the camino alone who is under 30. A group of Spainards tackling the camino by bicycle stopped me because they were taken aback 1) because I was a woman traveling alone, and 2) because I was an American in Spain on the camino. One of them said to me, "I have to give you some credit...Most Americans don't even know where Spain is! They think it's a part of Mexico, just south of their border! And you aren't walking around speaking only English! Good for you."
I was part flattered and part appalled--is this the prevailing opinion in Spain? It reaffirmed that as a traveler, I am also serving as a representation of "Americans in general" as well as a bit of an ambassador for the US. I'm grateful for all of the priviledges that being a woman in America has afforded me, but damn, there are a lot of people I've met from other places around the world on this trip who think we are real asses. Hopefully I can work to challenge that opinion one "buenos dias!" and kind smile at a time.
Wishing you all wellness. Take care of your bodies; listen to them when they yell at you!
Lots of love,
Kels
Climbing uphill is a workout, but I really don't mind it. In fact, the first 5 miles this morning reminded me of hiking in the Pacific Northwest: battle your way up a steep incline and you'll be rewarded with a hell of a view. It was fun to make the trip with Alex and Owen too, the Irish gentlemen from last night. Go figure: we discussed politics, the separation of church and state (or lack thereof), and gender roles...You know, just the typical lighthearted banter that arises while walking an obscenely long distance in the heat.
The only problem is that what goes up must come down, and the decent today really did a number on my joints. I don't usually have such a fast inflammatory reaction, but my hips, knees, and ankles were screaming at me today around mile 13. The path down from the peak was steep, covered in loose fragments of rock from the eroding hillside, and carved in a bit of a "V" shape from water runoff from mile 7 to mile 15.
Due to these conditions, I had to be extremely zoned in to the ground in front of me to ensure I didn't break an ankle or tumble down the mountain. The 26 pounds on my back coupled with the task of setting the pace (and pathway) for the two Irish fellows I was hiking with certainly didn't make matters any easier. I made it through the toughest decent, but opted to stop short of my goal location by about 2 miles because my body was yelling at me. When I first turned up at the albergue in this tiny town I was mad, in pain, and feeling a bit ill, but after a shower and a 3 hour nap my body and spirits improved. Also, I'm one of only two people staying here tonight, so I'll be able to catch up on precious sleep. I'm taking it as a silver lining, and I'll just try to make up the lost ground tomorrow...it's much flatter terrain!
Of all of the pilgrims I have interacted with, I've noticed that I'm the only woman traveling the camino alone who is under 30. A group of Spainards tackling the camino by bicycle stopped me because they were taken aback 1) because I was a woman traveling alone, and 2) because I was an American in Spain on the camino. One of them said to me, "I have to give you some credit...Most Americans don't even know where Spain is! They think it's a part of Mexico, just south of their border! And you aren't walking around speaking only English! Good for you."
I was part flattered and part appalled--is this the prevailing opinion in Spain? It reaffirmed that as a traveler, I am also serving as a representation of "Americans in general" as well as a bit of an ambassador for the US. I'm grateful for all of the priviledges that being a woman in America has afforded me, but damn, there are a lot of people I've met from other places around the world on this trip who think we are real asses. Hopefully I can work to challenge that opinion one "buenos dias!" and kind smile at a time.
Wishing you all wellness. Take care of your bodies; listen to them when they yell at you!
Lots of love,
Kels
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