Lessons from the Camino

After an indulgent night in my own room without a bunkmate or anyone to share a bathroom with, I left Cacabelos well rested and refreshed: clean clothes, clear head, full belly. Since I hadn't stayed at the albergue de los peregrinos, finding my way out of town and back to the camino was a bit tricky. But, after asking for directions 3+ times and wandering around, I stumbled upon one of the symbols I have come to know and love: una flecha amarilla (a yellow arrow).


I thought that walking the camino was going to be going to be a giant metaphor for me laboring to find inner peace with this stage of uncertainty in my life and (hopefully) finding a way through it. In reality, there is also quite a bit of me literally trying to find my way. Especially in the larger cities like Leon and Ponsferrada, it's easy to lose sight of the comforting signs and symbols that you are on the right path: yellow arrows, conch shells, or more explicitly, signs that say "El Camino de Santiago" in bright, bold print. The more distractions, the more options, the easier it is to lose your way. Hmm...I guess the metaphor holds anyway--it just takes on another layer.

That's the beauty of this journey on the camino, everything is a life lesson.
*The less you carry, the easier the journey. 
*Work hard today and you can rest tomorrow.
*The early bird catches the worm (and avoids the sweltering heat!).
*Be kind and helpful to others, and that same kindness will likely be returned to you.
*When in Rome (or in this case, Spain) do as the Romans (Spaniards) do--don't let fear or elitism cause you to miss out on an enriching experience.
*Help make things easier for those who will come after you, just as those who came before you did for you. The arrows fashioned from rocks that are left in dubious spots by previous peregrinos help me avoid wasting precious time and energy on a misleading, false pathway.

Many more lessons are sure to be revealed... This is only my 6th day, afterall!

One revelation stands out above anything else for me though: I am stronger than I think I am. This has become my mantra when I feel like quitting...because it's true.  

My skin is a bit bronzer (despite ample SPF 70, I promise dad!), waist a bit thinner (despite the cerveza, bocadillos, and helado), and perspective a bit shifted. There is so much more to life than the rat race to "succeed" by American standards. I will always be an American girl, but I hope to carry some of the European outlook on life back home with me to the States. 

Wishing each of you wellness,
Kelsey   

Hitting a rough patch and rallying.

I could not get out of Riego de Ambros fast enough this morning. As mentioned, there were two of us at the Albergue last night, which is really strange compared to what I've seen thus far. What I thought was going to be a good night of sleep turned into a nightmare when the other pilgrim staying there, a German man in his late 60s or early 70s, opened the door to the room where my bunk was and asked if I wanted to come sleep in his room. I was shocked and appalled, but tried to keep my cool as I said, "No thank you sir, I'd prefer to sleep alone tonight." He proceeded to touch my face and say, "But I'd rather sleep with you." Ugh...so not okay. All of my manners went out the window at that point; I pointed to the door and said, "Please leave. Get out. Now!" Let's just say I slept restlessly last night, as I felt I had to be on guard. It was a bit of a terrifying experience, as I had no one to call for help or backup...but I'm glad I didn't have to do so. I practically sprinted out of there at daybreak though.

The cherry on top was when I finished the rough decent into Molinaseca, I went to pull my camera out of the side pocket of my bag I was in such a rush that it went flying out of its case and both the lens and the LCD screen broke. How is one supposed to record 7 weeks of traveling in Europe without a functional camera?! I know material possessions aren't important in the grand scheme of life, but it was a major bummer. At this point I was physically and emotionally exhausted, which resulted in me crying and feeling sorry for myself for the next several miles.

Somehow, the camino worked it's ambulatory psychotherapy magic on me though, and by the time I reached the beautiful mideval town of Ponsferrada 8.5 miles in to my journey today I was ready to take charge and fix things. Being welcomed to the city by a mighty-looking castle helped solidify my resolve.

In this case, solving problems meant throwing money at them. I decided I was unwilling to go without a digital camera, so I allowed myself to purchase a new, lower-end digital camera for 135€ so I could continue documenting my travels. Tonight I am staying in a hotel for 35€ as well, where I can get a good night of sleep without any harassment, enjoy a full breakfast tomorrow morning, and have my laundry done for a few Euros more. Washing my clothes in sinks is fine, but every now and then it's worth it to pay for a proper washing. I also found a functional voltage converter down the street for 1€, which means I can ditch my current one that weighs nearly a pound and doesn't work in most outlets. Lastly I was able to buy some fresh vegetables, which I've really been missing. Spanish cuisine includes alot of ham and carbs, but not a ton of veggies.

There were so many emotional fluctuations today that it feels as though more than 18 miles have been walked and more than 16 hours have transpired. As for now, I'm going to take a moment to be thankful for all the good fortune that I have, and then enjoy a long night of uninterrupted sleep. Let's hope, anyway!

Lesson learned: Don't mope--it doesn't solve anything. Take control, be proactive, and do what you can to shift your perspective. Ride it out, and th situation will likely improve.

Wishing you all a less emotional Monday! ;)

Abrazos,
Kelsey

The climb up from Rabanal this morning was breathtaking. Rolling green hills as far as the eye can see dotted with wind turbines, wildflowers everywhere, blue sky...the landscape appears to have escaped unscathed from mankind's actions. The camino is a wonderful way to see a very different side of Spain. The tiny mountain villiages I've been staying in make Madrid look like a different country entirely!

Climbing uphill is a workout, but I really don't mind it. In fact, the first 5 miles this morning reminded me of hiking in the Pacific Northwest: battle your way up a steep incline and you'll be rewarded with a hell of a view. It was fun to make the trip with Alex and Owen too, the Irish gentlemen from last night. Go figure: we discussed politics, the separation of church and state (or lack thereof), and gender roles...You know, just the typical lighthearted banter that arises while walking an obscenely long distance in the heat.

The only problem is that what goes up must come down, and the decent today really did a number on my joints. I don't usually have such a fast inflammatory reaction, but my hips, knees, and ankles were screaming at me today around mile 13. The path down from the peak was steep, covered in loose fragments of rock from the eroding hillside, and carved in a bit of a "V" shape from water runoff from mile 7 to mile 15. 

Due to these conditions, I had to be extremely zoned in to the ground in front of me to ensure I didn't break an ankle or tumble down the mountain. The 26 pounds on my back coupled with the task of setting the pace (and pathway) for the two Irish fellows I was hiking with certainly didn't make matters any easier. I made it through the toughest decent, but opted to stop short of my goal location by about 2 miles because my body was yelling at me. When I first turned up at the albergue in this tiny town I was mad, in pain, and feeling a bit ill, but after a shower and a 3 hour nap my body and spirits improved. Also, I'm one of only two people staying here tonight, so I'll be able to catch up on precious sleep. I'm taking it as a silver lining, and I'll just try to make up the lost ground tomorrow...it's much flatter terrain!

Of all of the pilgrims I have interacted with, I've noticed that I'm the only woman traveling the camino alone who is under 30. A group of Spainards tackling the camino by bicycle stopped me because they were taken aback 1) because I was a woman traveling alone, and 2) because I was an American in Spain on the camino. One of them said to me, "I have to give you some credit...Most Americans don't even know where Spain is! They think it's a part of Mexico, just south of their border! And you aren't walking around speaking only English! Good for you."

I was part flattered and part appalled--is this the prevailing opinion in Spain? It reaffirmed that as a traveler, I am also serving as a representation of "Americans in general" as well as a bit of an ambassador for the US. I'm grateful for all of the priviledges that being a woman in America has afforded me, but damn, there are a lot of people I've met from other places around the world on this trip who think we are real asses. Hopefully I can work to challenge that opinion one "buenos dias!" and kind smile at a time.

Wishing you all wellness. Take care of your bodies; listen to them when they yell at you!

Lots of love,
Kels      

The camino bites back on day 3...

After a phenomenal day on the camino yesterday, I settled in to the albergue as I usually do: shower, laundry, grab something to refuel my weary body, and recount the day in my journal. I treated myself to dinner at a restaurant in plaza mayor (a large, open public square surrounded by beautiful buildings and restaurants) in Astorga, which even included TVs outside on the terrace so patrons could watch the futbol game. While I was there, I met another pilgrim named Ignacio from Barcelona, who was quite patient with me as I practiced my Spanish with him. 

Much to my surprise, when I returned to the albergue, Ignacio was there talking with another gentleman from Finland named Sven whom I had befriended earlier in the day. The three of us made quite the group as we hung out on the back porch of the albergue drinking wine, trying to communicate in a silly mix of English and Spanish, and laughing boisterously. We decided to head back to plaza mayor to watch the Spain versus Chile world cup match at 8:30 instead of going to bed like the rest of our peregrino counterparts. It was so much fun to watch the game amongst the incredibly passionate Spainish fans wrapped in flags and cursing at the screen :)

This morning was a little rough; it took my body about a mile or two to accept that 1) yes, this pack is damn heavy 2) it's not coming off for several hours, and 3) yes, it is going to have to keep moving despite the pain and heat. Once it accepted all of these inevitables, the pain subsided and I felt fine. 

Until around mile 12, that is. I could feel the blisters cropping up (between my big and second toe...sort of a strange spot) so I attempted to fashion some preventative padding, which allowed me to make it to Rabenal del Camino. But it sure wasn't pretty when I had to drain those things with a knife. I'm in good company though; every pilgrim's feet are quite battered, masked by elaborate bandaging. We'll all be on the camino by 7:00 am tomorrow to begin the accent to La Cruz de Ferro, which is at an altitude of 4,940 ft. Several other people are complaining about it and worried about how difficult it will be, but it seems pretty tame compared to Mount Si and countless other Northwest hikes. Hopefully I'm not getting ahead of myself in saying that...

I'm really enjoying the "pilgrim" life, it's very tranquil. The terrain in this part of the country reminds me of Grand Canyon National Park: red, rocky earth, rugged shrubbery, and short conifers that smell like Christmas-time in the heat. The way the landscape changes as I move toward the coast is pretty amazing.  

There are some really fun Irish guys who are my age at the albergue I'm stating in tonight, which will make this evening entertaining. One of the aspects of the camino I'm enjoying most are the relationships that are formed with fellow travelers. There are several of us who move at a similar pace, so we often see each other at the albergue in the town we've set our sights on. Interestingly enough though, most of the time while I'm hiking I can't see another soul ahead or behind me. Very curious...

I'm off to socialize before it's time to turn in for the night. I hear thunder outside (which today I learned is "tormenta" in Spanish...how cool is that?!), but here's hoping for decent hiking weather in the morning!!!

Abrazos,
Kels

P.S. Please forgive the glaringly obvious spelling and gramatical errors in these posts. As most of you know, I am usually a diligent spell-checker/proofreader, but most albergues with free internet have a 15 minute limit. I hope the resulting posts aren't too painful too look at ;)    

Day 2 of El Camino de Santiago...¡más facil que el primer día!

When I headed out the door of the albergue at 6:45am, I was one of the first perigrinos to leave Villadangos this morning. I´m glad I got myself going too--I was able to witness a spectacular sunrise over the town and endless fields of crops as I walked down the Camino. The smell of the fields as I left Villadangos immediately took me back to my days at Black Hills High School, where that same pungent smell associated with livestock and agriculture would greet me as I turned into school each morning.

Todays section from Villadangos to Astorga was about 20 miles, which surprisingly, felt easier than yesterday´s 15. I think it was a combination of the beautiful fields, great conversation with another pilgrim named Daniel from Uruguay, and (yes, I´ll admit it) some great tunes from my iPod. There was a really tough couple miles around the 15-16 mark, but just as I began to really tire a man appeared on the horizon with a wagon full of refreshments like a mirage. It was absolutely brilliant. Shortly thereafter, the oppresive heat from the sun dissapated the sun hid behind some clouds, as though the universe was saying, "Ok Kelsey, we´ll give you a break for a bit."

I really enjoy the solitude, the challenge, and the solidarity of the Camino. The wildflowers that frame much of the path smell amazing; my favorites are a beautiful red and have delicate, fluttering petals like poppies. They always seem to appear when I´m feeling a bit weary, along with a butterfly that will dance in front of me over the camino.

Passing through Hospital de Órbigo was pretty amazing. There is an impressively old bridge that leads you into the city, and to the left there is a jousting arena set up...perhaps they will be holding a mideval tournament soon? No sé, but it was really amusing to stumble across. I stopped in town for a quick café con leche to refuel for the next ten miles. Back on the trail I met Daniel, and we were able to sustain a conversation in a combination of broken Spanish and English for the next ten miles, exchanging stories of heartbreak and travel adventures. It helped make the second grueling half less taxing.

Living out of my pack is becoming easier and less frustrating. I haven´t worn a lick of makeup for five days, which is pretty liberating to be honest. Let´s just say I´m not getting many second looks from the men around here, though ;) Today, even with the extra weight of three liters of water in my pack, it felt lighter...less like a large toddler clinging to my back for mile after mile. I´m hoping this trend continues!

Well, I´m off to find some good chow and take a siesta. I´m treating myself to dinner out in Astorga tonight instead of whipping up pasta again at the albergue.

Sending love from BEAUTIFUL northern Spain!

Abrazos,

Kelsey

Day 1 of El Camino de Santiago

After a crazy day of traveling yesterday (plane to Madrid, bus to León) I finally found the pilgrim´s albergue and settled in for a night of rest. It´s a very cool experience, meeting people from all over the world and listening to why they are embarking on the Camino. Meals are usually communal, there is a kitchen if you´d like to prepare your own food, and the fare is only 4 Euro a night.

Today I walked from León to Villadangos del Páramo, which was about 15 miles. I had originally intended to walk 20, but the heat forced me to surrender. As I left town in León at 7:00 am, the Spainards my age were just leaving the bars and were putting on quite the show outside the main cathedral in town (pictured at the left). As I walked past, I saw two people violently expel the contents of their stomach and another man relieve himself as I neared him, which he found quite amusing. It made me a little mad to see people blatantly disrespecting such a beautiful part of their city.

Walking the Camino started out lovely, with the sun not yet overhead and blazing. The fields I passed through were colored with yellow and red wildflowers (the colors of Spain) that smelled wonderful. Oftentimes butterflies would cross my path too, which was strange because I never saw them anywhere else in the field but next to the camino. This is going to be a test of my willpower and endurance, but I´m really enjoying the reprive from rushing around to see tourist attractions.

I´m going to try to made it to Astorga tomorrow, which is about 20 miles...I´m really hoping I won´t be sore. For now, I´m off to take a siesta and rest up!

As we pilgrims say to one another, "Buen Camino!"
I hope the road of life is treating each of you well :)

Abrazos,
Kelsey

Pushing my comfort level in Marrakech

Apologies for not updating sooner; Morocco ended up being a whirlwind. Two days to see the city probably would have been enough, but when combined with meeting new people and socializing, it felt a little chaotic...but in a good way. 

The riad experience was amazing; you are treated like family by the owners, and most of the guests hang out in a central open-air courtyard talking, drinking mint tea, and smoking shisha. We had a really fun group of twenty-somethings from all over the world: Canada, Brazil, Australia, New Zealand, Germany, Slovokia, and the US. We all had dinner together both nights I was there and stayed up talking and laughing far later than I should have when I had to catch a 8:00 flight back to Madrid. Two Canadian women from Quebec I befriended just happen to be in Santiago de Compostela around the same time I'll be passing through on the camino, so we're hoping to meet up again while all of us are in the same city (but on a different continent this time!).   

One of the most unique experiences was being invited to a hamam by Rasheeta, the "riad mom" while I was there. Three other girls and I accompanied two Moroccan women to the local bath house where everyone in the community visits once a week for a deep cleaning and exfoliation. The experience was unlike anything I've ever been exposed to...the closest thing I can equate it to would be going to a spa where everyone in your neighborhood visits once a week and performs the treatments themselves with black soap and a special mitt that sloughs skin like you would not believe. It also offered a really unique glimpse into the relationships between women in Morocco. 

One of my favorite parts of traveling is getting to know the culture through their food. Morrocan food is phenomenal: tanjeens, koufta, couscous, mint tea, freshly squeezed orange juice, kababs...yum. Good thing my next stop is the camino--I have some extra calories to burn.

Between the incredibly forward advances from men, 97 degree heat, and cultural differences, Marrakech really pushed me out of my comfort zone. I don't think I'd last long here, but I'm so glad I decided to add this leg to my trip. It has been both an eye-opening and humbling experience.

Now I'm off to catch a train to Leon--Onward to the camino! I'm looking forward to a less hectic pace of traveling, getting out of urban areas, and savoring some alone time. Essentially, I'm heading from one extreme to the other. 

I hope your respective summers are off to a splendid start!

Au revoir and salaam,
Kelsey      

Moving on to Morocco

In flying to Marrakech I was granted my first RyanAir experience. No assigned seating, strict carry on luggage requirements, and ridiculous in-flight shinanigans...But dang is it cheap: $42 round trip from Madrid to Marrakech. 

In Morocco, I'm staying at Riad Massin just northwest of the main city plaza called Place Jemaa El Fna. Riads (houses constructed around a central courtyard) are a unique lodging option in Morocco. Where I'm staying, for 12 euro (or 120 dirham, the local currency) per night I'm in a room with three other women; the set up is similar to a college dorm room with bunk beds and a shared bathroom for four of us. The entire riad is decorated in beautiful art, carved borders around the ceilings, intricate tile work, and local lanterns.  Included at this riad are sheets/towels, unlimited mint tea, and one shisha per day. I love how different the inclusions are abroad :)

I'm really wishing I had brought long pants; even though I brought a pashmina to cover my chest and shoulders, when walking out and about, I've already gotten some angry looks from women and shocked looks from men for having bare caves below my knee-length dress. I'm trying to decide if I need to go purchase some cheap pants to rectify this issue...most things I read had made it seem as though capri-length pants and long skirts were okay if shoulders were covered. I'm just nervous about appearing disrespectful.

After a quick nap to recharge (since i've been up since 4:00am) i am going to head out to the city center and battle through my nerves about being out and about as a thoroughly American-looking girl. Wish me luck! 

I'll post again tomorrow so my mom and dad know I'm alright :)

Hasta luego,
Kelsey

First days in Madrid

Ah, airports. We met again to revisit our love-hate relationship. Security checkpoints, customs, baggage claim, angry travelers...but your presence usually means I'm off to somewhere fun. I suppose your chaotic environment is an acceptable imposition for the reward of two months of adventure.

In typical Kelsey fashion, I chatted up my neighbors and flight attendants on both flights; being personable and kind to strangers has it's rewards, such as unexpected networking with other Washingtonians, extra airplane snacks, and (multiple) free Spanish beers from a very kind stewardess. Did you know that wine and beer now cost $6.00 a pop on international flights?! Major bummer. But yay for good manners paying off--thanks, mom and dad!

Watching the sun set over the west from 35,000 ft in the air was pretty spectacular. The symbolism wasn't overlooked either: ending one day and starting anew in another place...albeit jet-lagged.

Navigating from Madrid's airport to the center of the city on the metro was a breeze (thanks to my friend Lindsay's fool-proof directons). On one of the trains two men standing next to me called all of the passengers to attention, serenaded us for several minutes, then vanished at the next stop. I seemed to be the only one who was amused though.

Fun fact for all my public health friends: condoms are sold at the metro stations in dispensers with messages about safe sex. What an interesting place for sexual health outreach! I've also seen several smoking cessation social marketing ads on busses, but I'm afraid those are widely overlooked; everyone in this city seems to have a cigarette in their hand at all times. 

Meeting many of Lindsay's coworkers from the American School of Madrid has been really fun; they're a great group of teachers who know how to have a good time ;) There was lots of yelling and excitement as we all watched the US/Slovenia game on Friday (which the US won 3-2, in my opinion!)

I've spent quite a bit of time wandering around town, and I'm pleasantly surprised to say that I feel like I have my bearings in Madrid. Every time I turn the corner, I stumble upon another immaculately maintained public garden or a beautifully ornate building. The sights and sounds are like candy for the senses.

The most interesting thing to me though is the pace and style of living. This city doesn't sleep! Siestas from 2-4:00ish, dinner at 11:00 or midnight, and the nightlife continues well past sunrise. The streets are so much different than the States; cars compete for space on narrow one way roads and many of the calles are strictly for pedestrians. Cars aren't needed to get by here, as the intensely urban enviroment provides all you'd need within a quick walk from your apartment. Specialized food stores, green space, shopping, entertainment, public transit...I think these Europeans are on to something.

I think that wraps up my general overview for starters; I'll post again soon to recount some more specific amusing happenings. As for now, I'm succumbing to another wave of jet lag.

Hope you are all having a wonderful weekend!

Abrazos,
Kels

¡Hasta luego, los Estados Unidos!

After a hearty breakfast prepared by my wonderful father (happy early father's day, pops!), I'm off to catch my plane. First to Dallas, then on to Madrid!

My boots are laced, my pack is on my back, and my iPod is loaded with tunes and podcasts :)

¡Vamos a España! I'll do my best to update again before I head to Marrakech.

Have a great weekend everyone,

Kelsey

On the eve of the leave...

After lots of planning and packing, I'm ready to embark on an adventure! I'll be taking off from SeaTac tomorrow morning at 11:00am, and after a full day of travel, I'll land in Madrid on Friday at 10:00am (which will be around 1:00am PST). Fact: this Pacific Northwesterner is going to melt in the Moroccan heat next week...

I'm usually not big on "omens" and the like, but when I stumbled upon this while I was running near the capitol last weekend I was a bit taken aback.

I took it to mean I'm doing the right thing and this trip is what I really need right now. Although I must say, I never found out the actual reason why Spain's flag was flying alongside the US and Washington State flags...

Since I will be my own personal pack mule for the entire duration of my time in Europe, the goal was to keep my pack at 25lbs or below. Let's just say that's been a challenge --right now it's hovering around 29-30lbs.

The things that are really holding me back from "making weight" are essentials that I just can't leave behind: contact solution, voltage adapter, Spanish phrasebooks, my guidebook for the Camino... For once in my life the issue isn't too many shoes :)

I can't even begin to predict what traveling solo is going to be like, but I do know that this trip is going to open my eyes to new things and force me to grow. I'm sure it will be exhilarating at times and painful at others, but I'm looking forward to the journey :)

Wishing you all a wonderful summer filled with adventure!

Mil abrazos,

Kels

Counting Down!

In nine days, I'll be touching down in Madrid with nothing but myself and my pack. I've been oscillating between excitement and anxiety, which is exactly what I expected to feel as my departure date neared. This is going to be one hell of an adventure!

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Here's my basic itinerary:

June 17th - June 21st | Madrid, Spain

June 21st - June 23rd | Marrakech, Morocco

June 24th | Head North to León, Spain to begin hiking El Camino de Santiago

June 24th - July 16th | Walk the second half of El Camino de Santiago, from León out to Cape Finisterre (Larger version of map)

July 17th | Head back to Madrid to meet my mom

July 19th - July 21st | Madrid with mom

July 21st - July 23rd | Paris, France with mom

July 23rd - July 30th | ITALY: Venice, Florence, and Rome with mom

July 30th - August 5th | GREECE: Athens, Santorini (?), Mykonos (?) with mom

August 5th | Fly back to the States

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Not sure exactly how often I'll be able to update--particularly while I'm on the Camino--but I'm going to give it my best shot. My goal for now: ensuring that my pack is under 25 pounds for this seven week journey! (For those of you who have travelled with me, you know that is going to be a challenge!)

Wishing you all health and happiness!

- Kels