After an evening of very little sleep, I caught the metro to Barajas to meet my momma. Found her at the airport no problem (thank goodness...neither of us has a telephone, so that could have been interesting) and we hopped the metro back into the city center.
I checked out of my hostel in Sol and into a beautiful hotel off of Gran Via--quite the upgrade. I think my time of travelling like a poor twenty-something just drew to a close!
Since my jet-lagged mom needed a siesta (but only a short one!), the first afternoon was pretty low-key; it was 100 degrees outside, so it was better to avoid the midday heat anyway. That evening we had dinner in Plaza Mayor at a restaurant that would have made my dear brother Cameron weep with joy: Museo del Jamon (Read: Museum of Pig-Related Products). It was simple, unfussy, and positively delicious.
Walking around and seeing the city at night is almost superior to seeing it during daylight; the temperature is 85 instead of 100, no direct sunlight, and all of thr buildings have an ethereal backlit glow about them. Perhaps that's the way to see other European cities in the summertime, too...?
Day two involved more day-time sightseeing, including the absolutely gorgeous Parque del Retiro, which I could only describe as the central park of Madrid. Around 6:00pm Madrid time/9:00am Pacific Standard Time, I had a couple Skype dates with my pops and Cammy--ah the wonders of technology! I still don't know how they are able to provide that service for free, but I certainly appreciate it.
Since we had an early flight to Paris the next day, my mom and I decided to have an early dinner (which in Madrid, means around 9:00pm), opting for a great little menu del dia that included tapas, drinks, a main course, and dessert for 10€ each. I haven't found Spainish food to be particularly amazing, but it is affordable :)
I'm going to miss Spain; my experiences here have catalyzed a tangible "internal growth spurt" for me. With that, I'll be leaving you Espana...for now :)
Love to all,
KW
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Post camino vacay to beachy A Coruna!
The train ride to A Coruna was quick and painless--40 minutes and 4.90€. I arrived at the station around 4:00pm without a clue as to my orientation in the city, or where I was supposed to be going, but with lots of energy and willpower to find my way.
One of my new favorite things is being deposited in a foreign city and trying to find my destination. This is particularly challenging when I don't have a map, which was the scenerio in A Coruna. But with some trial and error--along with several inquiries for directions--I found my way to the marina after about an hour, where there happened to be a tourism office. I arrived just as the office was opening post-siesta, got myself a map of the city, and navigated my way to the hostel where I was staying. And to think, I almost gave up and hailed a taxi! So glad I battled through it: the camino prepared me for the long-ish jaunt with my pack, and there is a fabulous sense of accomplishment when I am able to figure out a large city on my own...especially when the language is not my native tongue!
I've decided that A Coruna is the people-watching capitol of Spain...or at least Galicia. Not only are there limitless opportunities for me to observe others (which, as many of you know, is a favorite pasttime of mine), I myself am often the object of scrutiny. You ladies know what I'm talking about; we're always sizing up other women, but it's taken to a whole new level in this city: lingering, uncomfortably long stares without any attempt at hiding the blatant gawking. The most intense and shameless observers are older women and young children; the combination of grandmothers and their grandchildren is particularly ruthless. My two favorite strategies to combat this phenomenon are to either 1) walk on by and act completely oblivious to their eyes piercing my skin, or 2) stare back at them intently as I walk past, making them uncomfortable, angry, or both. Such a fun little game.
There was lots to see and do in A Coruna, from ancient sights to beach lounging. A couple of my favorite tourist sights included the Tower of Hercules, a lighthouse built in the 2nd century AD to alert local protection from potential enemies. It is located out on the northwest tip of the peninsula upon which the city of A Coruna encompasses. There is also an impressive promenade that follows the coastline, framing the entire city. Near my hostel, there was also a garden close to the marina that included such wonderful oddities as an entire day-planner set made from flowers: functioning clock and calendar included (the gardeners change the plants every 24 hours to reflect the new date). Nice to see that even in a floundering economy, places of public enjoyment are not sacrificed!
I left early to make the 40 minute walk to the train station, assuming I'd have plenty of time to get there and secure a ticket. I'd forgotten one thing: it is Sunday and lots of Spaniards head to the beach for the weekend--the Renfe trains that usually have several vacancies were COMPLETELY booked. All of them, even the night train. This would have been no big deal, but my mom is arriving in Madrid at Barajas at 7:40am today and I need to be there to meet her.
The closest I'd been to having a breakdown the whole trip, I raced out of the train station and began asking for directions to the bus station on the street. One man sent me the wrong way, but after several more inquiries, I made it and rushed the ticket counter, where no one was to be found (it was nearing siesta time). "Por favor, ayudame! Hay autobuses hoy con destino a Madrid? Tienen billetes?! Alguien esta aqui?! Por favor!!!" After a while a woman in her thirties came strolling up to the counter, annoyed by my haste. It took a bit of time and pleading, but I was able to secure one of the last few bus tickets that evening to Madrid. Yet again, the universe delivers.
So here I am, back in Madrid for the evening before I meet up with my mom tomorrow morning at the airport. I feel like I know this city quite well despite only having been here once before for a few days; I was able to navigate from the bus station to the metro to my hostel at 11:00pm with no trouble at all. Funny how I can feel comfortable navigating Madrid but still manage to get lost in Olympia, Seattle, or Bellingham.
Hope you all enjoyed a delightful weekend; I'm off to catch a couple "z's" before heading to the airport in a few hours!
Hasta luego,
Kels
p.s. - A Coruna also introduced me to the world of topless beaches. Hello, Europe!
One of my new favorite things is being deposited in a foreign city and trying to find my destination. This is particularly challenging when I don't have a map, which was the scenerio in A Coruna. But with some trial and error--along with several inquiries for directions--I found my way to the marina after about an hour, where there happened to be a tourism office. I arrived just as the office was opening post-siesta, got myself a map of the city, and navigated my way to the hostel where I was staying. And to think, I almost gave up and hailed a taxi! So glad I battled through it: the camino prepared me for the long-ish jaunt with my pack, and there is a fabulous sense of accomplishment when I am able to figure out a large city on my own...especially when the language is not my native tongue!
I've decided that A Coruna is the people-watching capitol of Spain...or at least Galicia. Not only are there limitless opportunities for me to observe others (which, as many of you know, is a favorite pasttime of mine), I myself am often the object of scrutiny. You ladies know what I'm talking about; we're always sizing up other women, but it's taken to a whole new level in this city: lingering, uncomfortably long stares without any attempt at hiding the blatant gawking. The most intense and shameless observers are older women and young children; the combination of grandmothers and their grandchildren is particularly ruthless. My two favorite strategies to combat this phenomenon are to either 1) walk on by and act completely oblivious to their eyes piercing my skin, or 2) stare back at them intently as I walk past, making them uncomfortable, angry, or both. Such a fun little game.
There was lots to see and do in A Coruna, from ancient sights to beach lounging. A couple of my favorite tourist sights included the Tower of Hercules, a lighthouse built in the 2nd century AD to alert local protection from potential enemies. It is located out on the northwest tip of the peninsula upon which the city of A Coruna encompasses. There is also an impressive promenade that follows the coastline, framing the entire city. Near my hostel, there was also a garden close to the marina that included such wonderful oddities as an entire day-planner set made from flowers: functioning clock and calendar included (the gardeners change the plants every 24 hours to reflect the new date). Nice to see that even in a floundering economy, places of public enjoyment are not sacrificed!
I left early to make the 40 minute walk to the train station, assuming I'd have plenty of time to get there and secure a ticket. I'd forgotten one thing: it is Sunday and lots of Spaniards head to the beach for the weekend--the Renfe trains that usually have several vacancies were COMPLETELY booked. All of them, even the night train. This would have been no big deal, but my mom is arriving in Madrid at Barajas at 7:40am today and I need to be there to meet her.
The closest I'd been to having a breakdown the whole trip, I raced out of the train station and began asking for directions to the bus station on the street. One man sent me the wrong way, but after several more inquiries, I made it and rushed the ticket counter, where no one was to be found (it was nearing siesta time). "Por favor, ayudame! Hay autobuses hoy con destino a Madrid? Tienen billetes?! Alguien esta aqui?! Por favor!!!" After a while a woman in her thirties came strolling up to the counter, annoyed by my haste. It took a bit of time and pleading, but I was able to secure one of the last few bus tickets that evening to Madrid. Yet again, the universe delivers.
So here I am, back in Madrid for the evening before I meet up with my mom tomorrow morning at the airport. I feel like I know this city quite well despite only having been here once before for a few days; I was able to navigate from the bus station to the metro to my hostel at 11:00pm with no trouble at all. Funny how I can feel comfortable navigating Madrid but still manage to get lost in Olympia, Seattle, or Bellingham.
Hope you all enjoyed a delightful weekend; I'm off to catch a couple "z's" before heading to the airport in a few hours!
Hasta luego,
Kels
p.s. - A Coruna also introduced me to the world of topless beaches. Hello, Europe!
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Santiago Part 2: Seeing Ben Harper play next to a cathedral
With the camino behind me, I still had a week to fill with my own selfish wants before meeting my madre in Madrid. And so I returned to Santiago de Compostela to reunite with Laurence and Luisa, the lovely young ladies from Quebec whom I met at the riad in Morocco (and who will henceforth be referred to as "L&L" for the sake of simplicity).
But let me tell you, meeting up with people in a huge city is quite difficult when you've neither telephone nor telephone number at which to be reached. Even the internet (bless its amazing utility) can be a bit fickle in such matters, as it is only effective when I have access to its wonders of wifi connectivity. All that said, I wasn't able to meet up with L&L until the morning of the 14th (Wed), when I surprised them at their hostel by slipping a note under the door like a total creeper. But I'm getting ahead of myself: first, let's cover what went down the night I arrived back in Santiago...
Since I got into town a bit late on Tuesday after a lovely day at the beach in Fisterre, I headed toward the Semenario that serves as a giant pilgrim albergue in town in order to grab a cheap place to stay and get cleaned up. (This is going to sound crazy, but at this point I prefer albergues to hostels and hotels. The latter two feel lonely to me now.) After a quick shower, I headed toward the cathedral to see if L&L had read the message I'd posted about meeting up, but alas, they didn't show because they hadn't received my plea. I was bummed, but decided to grab some dinner and a cerveza while revelling in the joys of people watching for awhile before the midnight curfew for pilgrims staying at the Seminario.
On my way back to the giant albergue, something sort of strange happened: a group of men standing on a bridge above me began yelling at me frantically, "Momo?! Momo?!" I stopped and looked at them quizzically, trying to decipher what they wanted. I asked them if they spoke either Spanish or English so I could help them: first in Spanish, then in English. When I asked in English, a wave of recognition washed over their faces. One of the men shouted, "You speak English?!"
After a brief explanation, I learned these gents were looking for a bar their friend had recommended to them called "Momo"--hence the reason they were yelling that from the bridge. I offered to help them find this elusive watering hole since I still had a bit of time before curfew...plus, the albergue was right around the corner. After I asked a few locals, we found "Momo" and I went to wish the group well and be on my way, but they insisted I join them for a beer. I was intrigued as to why a group of guys from LA was in Santiago, so I obliged them.
Momo turned out to be a wicked cool bar with an amazing garden patio extension, complete with paper lanterns to provide a casual but chic ambiance. From our table, I could see the Semanario looming in the distance, reminding me of my 12:00 curfew. The guys asked me what I was doing in Santiago; they were intrigued to meet an American who had walked the Camino, which spurred questions along the lines of, "Why the hell did you come to Spain to walk a really long way?!" When I returned the "Why are you in Santiago?" question, I was shocked by the response: "Oh, we're here to put on the Ben Harper show tomorrow."
You've got to be kidding me. I had walked passed hundreds of signs advertising the show around the city and had seen the stage next to the cathedral that afternoon. Now I was sitting around drinking beer with Ben Harper's stage crew. They asked what I was up to that night, to which I gave my pitiful reply, "Well...I have to be back at the albergue in 20 minutes..." like I was a teenager trying not to anger my parents. But seriously though, they lock you out if you're late, and I didn't want to sleep on a bench that night. Plus, they kick you out at 9:00am, and all of my stuff was there.
"You seriously have a curfew?!" asked Aaron, the sound engineer. "How about this: if you come out with us you can sleep back at our hotel for a bit before you go pick up your stuff." I weighed this option, asking, "Only if we're perfectly clear that I'm not sleeping with anyone." (I'd like to say now that all parties honored my request.) "Fair enough," he said. "We need someone to guide us around this city though."
And so I skipped curfew and stayed out all night. We went to another bar where I met the rest of the band: Jason (lead guitar), Jesse (bass), and Jordan (drums). Jordan's lady friend (gf?) from France named Elise was there, too. After awhile it began to rain and a few of us opted to relocate to a bar with a roof ...and foosball :)
And so I stayed up all night playing foosball, talking, and drinking sangria with musicians--not a bad way to spend an evening. When they asked if I was going to the show, I said, "Well I'm fairly certain I have to now." To which Aron replied, "There will be free tickets waiting for you at will-call. I already arranged it."
At this point it was after 5:00am, and we were all fading a bit. I was going to head back to the Semanario and hope that the door was open, but was convinced to crash at the 5 star hotel the band was staying at instead. I know that sounds really shady, but I swear, all I did was sleep on the opposite side of a plush king size bed for a couple hours before returning to the albergue to fetch my things. Hey, they were the ones who stopped me in the street and convinced me to stay out late!
After gathering my pack and consulting Google for the address of L&L's hostel, I set out to find them. It was fun to surprise them and let them know I'd scored us all free tickets to the show that night. We enjoyed a lazy day filled with cafes con leche, fresh-squeezed OJ, and trying on clothes from all of the chic European chain stores like Zara, Blanco, etc. After wearing nothing but hiking gear for the last 3+ weeks, I was game to spend 20€ on a pair of jeans and a top to wear to the show that night!
On the way back to the hostel, we picked up some pre-show snacks and some wine called "El Sangre del Toro" (Literally, the blood of the bull. How ridiculous is that?!) Even better: it's really good and costs less than 3€ per bottle. Brilliant.
And so we headed to the Ben Harper and the Relentless7 show, which was being held in a plaza directly next to the cathedral in Santiago. It was an unreal backdrop for a concert...I'll never forget it. Walking up to will-call, flashing my passport, and receiving three free tickets was phenomenal, too...not to mention the fact that there were also aftershow passes in the envelope. Seriously, who has this kind of good fortune?! Seeing that show in Spain made me appreciate everything glorious about the situation 100x more. Simply amazing.
After another late night filled with great music, vino, friends, and fun on verrry little sleep, I crashed hard. In retrospect, it's pretty humorous: my most debaucherous behavior has transpired in the holiest city I've visited...whoops!
After all of that, heading north to the coastal city of A Coruna for some beach time and relaxation is much needed!
Live it up every chance you get--and for goodness sake, always stop to give people directions! ;)
Abrazos,
Kels
But let me tell you, meeting up with people in a huge city is quite difficult when you've neither telephone nor telephone number at which to be reached. Even the internet (bless its amazing utility) can be a bit fickle in such matters, as it is only effective when I have access to its wonders of wifi connectivity. All that said, I wasn't able to meet up with L&L until the morning of the 14th (Wed), when I surprised them at their hostel by slipping a note under the door like a total creeper. But I'm getting ahead of myself: first, let's cover what went down the night I arrived back in Santiago...
Since I got into town a bit late on Tuesday after a lovely day at the beach in Fisterre, I headed toward the Semenario that serves as a giant pilgrim albergue in town in order to grab a cheap place to stay and get cleaned up. (This is going to sound crazy, but at this point I prefer albergues to hostels and hotels. The latter two feel lonely to me now.) After a quick shower, I headed toward the cathedral to see if L&L had read the message I'd posted about meeting up, but alas, they didn't show because they hadn't received my plea. I was bummed, but decided to grab some dinner and a cerveza while revelling in the joys of people watching for awhile before the midnight curfew for pilgrims staying at the Seminario.
On my way back to the giant albergue, something sort of strange happened: a group of men standing on a bridge above me began yelling at me frantically, "Momo?! Momo?!" I stopped and looked at them quizzically, trying to decipher what they wanted. I asked them if they spoke either Spanish or English so I could help them: first in Spanish, then in English. When I asked in English, a wave of recognition washed over their faces. One of the men shouted, "You speak English?!"
After a brief explanation, I learned these gents were looking for a bar their friend had recommended to them called "Momo"--hence the reason they were yelling that from the bridge. I offered to help them find this elusive watering hole since I still had a bit of time before curfew...plus, the albergue was right around the corner. After I asked a few locals, we found "Momo" and I went to wish the group well and be on my way, but they insisted I join them for a beer. I was intrigued as to why a group of guys from LA was in Santiago, so I obliged them.
Momo turned out to be a wicked cool bar with an amazing garden patio extension, complete with paper lanterns to provide a casual but chic ambiance. From our table, I could see the Semanario looming in the distance, reminding me of my 12:00 curfew. The guys asked me what I was doing in Santiago; they were intrigued to meet an American who had walked the Camino, which spurred questions along the lines of, "Why the hell did you come to Spain to walk a really long way?!" When I returned the "Why are you in Santiago?" question, I was shocked by the response: "Oh, we're here to put on the Ben Harper show tomorrow."
You've got to be kidding me. I had walked passed hundreds of signs advertising the show around the city and had seen the stage next to the cathedral that afternoon. Now I was sitting around drinking beer with Ben Harper's stage crew. They asked what I was up to that night, to which I gave my pitiful reply, "Well...I have to be back at the albergue in 20 minutes..." like I was a teenager trying not to anger my parents. But seriously though, they lock you out if you're late, and I didn't want to sleep on a bench that night. Plus, they kick you out at 9:00am, and all of my stuff was there.
"You seriously have a curfew?!" asked Aaron, the sound engineer. "How about this: if you come out with us you can sleep back at our hotel for a bit before you go pick up your stuff." I weighed this option, asking, "Only if we're perfectly clear that I'm not sleeping with anyone." (I'd like to say now that all parties honored my request.) "Fair enough," he said. "We need someone to guide us around this city though."
And so I skipped curfew and stayed out all night. We went to another bar where I met the rest of the band: Jason (lead guitar), Jesse (bass), and Jordan (drums). Jordan's lady friend (gf?) from France named Elise was there, too. After awhile it began to rain and a few of us opted to relocate to a bar with a roof ...and foosball :)
And so I stayed up all night playing foosball, talking, and drinking sangria with musicians--not a bad way to spend an evening. When they asked if I was going to the show, I said, "Well I'm fairly certain I have to now." To which Aron replied, "There will be free tickets waiting for you at will-call. I already arranged it."
At this point it was after 5:00am, and we were all fading a bit. I was going to head back to the Semanario and hope that the door was open, but was convinced to crash at the 5 star hotel the band was staying at instead. I know that sounds really shady, but I swear, all I did was sleep on the opposite side of a plush king size bed for a couple hours before returning to the albergue to fetch my things. Hey, they were the ones who stopped me in the street and convinced me to stay out late!
After gathering my pack and consulting Google for the address of L&L's hostel, I set out to find them. It was fun to surprise them and let them know I'd scored us all free tickets to the show that night. We enjoyed a lazy day filled with cafes con leche, fresh-squeezed OJ, and trying on clothes from all of the chic European chain stores like Zara, Blanco, etc. After wearing nothing but hiking gear for the last 3+ weeks, I was game to spend 20€ on a pair of jeans and a top to wear to the show that night!
On the way back to the hostel, we picked up some pre-show snacks and some wine called "El Sangre del Toro" (Literally, the blood of the bull. How ridiculous is that?!) Even better: it's really good and costs less than 3€ per bottle. Brilliant.
And so we headed to the Ben Harper and the Relentless7 show, which was being held in a plaza directly next to the cathedral in Santiago. It was an unreal backdrop for a concert...I'll never forget it. Walking up to will-call, flashing my passport, and receiving three free tickets was phenomenal, too...not to mention the fact that there were also aftershow passes in the envelope. Seriously, who has this kind of good fortune?! Seeing that show in Spain made me appreciate everything glorious about the situation 100x more. Simply amazing.
After another late night filled with great music, vino, friends, and fun on verrry little sleep, I crashed hard. In retrospect, it's pretty humorous: my most debaucherous behavior has transpired in the holiest city I've visited...whoops!
After all of that, heading north to the coastal city of A Coruna for some beach time and relaxation is much needed!
Live it up every chance you get--and for goodness sake, always stop to give people directions! ;)
Abrazos,
Kels
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Final camino entry: Lessons from the Camino, Part 2
After walking 255 miles, I came up with several methaphors related to the camino. Some of them are quite cheesy, but nonetheless, I find them amusing. (Plus, you should all be well aware of how terrible my jokes and "witty" quips are!)
Advice for--and from--the Camino de Santiago (to be taken literally regarding the Camino and metaphorically when applying to "life"):
* Watch out for the piles of crap in the middle of the path that the ass before you left behind as he or she walked forward. Try to step around them if you can...but if you do have the misfortune of ending up in the middle of it, do your best to laugh at the ridiculousness of it all, shake it off your boot, and keep going. Lastly, try your best not to laugh at the misfortune of others when they end up in a "shitty" situation.
* Do your best to be kind to those who join the journey a bit late or approach the trip differently than you (like taking the easier route on the bus, for example...) You will get out what you put in, just like the others. Everyone has their own version of the camino.
* Keep something sturdy by your side to pull you uphill during the rough patches when you are really fatigued. Let people say what they want about your poles--they help!
* The uphill battle is hard work, but the view from the top is usually worth it. Make sure to take time to savor the fruits of your labors: what goes up must come down...and the descent is usually more painful and more dangerous. The sturdy poles by your side come in handy here, too.
* Sometimes the perfection is not in the finale at the end of the road, but rather in the journey itself. Don't expect an ephiphany at the end of the camino--that puts unnecessary pressure on the process to produce a specific outcome. Roll with it and savor each moment; you'll be less likely to end up disappointed. Although, if you're patient, maybe things will end up just the way you'd been hoping they would all along...
Sad that it's over, but so thankful to have had the opportunity to experience it. Perhaps I'll be back to try my hand at another one of the camino routes in the future...
Wishing each of you serenity on your own "camino" :)
Abrazos,
Kelsey
Advice for--and from--the Camino de Santiago (to be taken literally regarding the Camino and metaphorically when applying to "life"):
* Watch out for the piles of crap in the middle of the path that the ass before you left behind as he or she walked forward. Try to step around them if you can...but if you do have the misfortune of ending up in the middle of it, do your best to laugh at the ridiculousness of it all, shake it off your boot, and keep going. Lastly, try your best not to laugh at the misfortune of others when they end up in a "shitty" situation.
* Do your best to be kind to those who join the journey a bit late or approach the trip differently than you (like taking the easier route on the bus, for example...) You will get out what you put in, just like the others. Everyone has their own version of the camino.
* Keep something sturdy by your side to pull you uphill during the rough patches when you are really fatigued. Let people say what they want about your poles--they help!
* The uphill battle is hard work, but the view from the top is usually worth it. Make sure to take time to savor the fruits of your labors: what goes up must come down...and the descent is usually more painful and more dangerous. The sturdy poles by your side come in handy here, too.
* Sometimes the perfection is not in the finale at the end of the road, but rather in the journey itself. Don't expect an ephiphany at the end of the camino--that puts unnecessary pressure on the process to produce a specific outcome. Roll with it and savor each moment; you'll be less likely to end up disappointed. Although, if you're patient, maybe things will end up just the way you'd been hoping they would all along...
Sad that it's over, but so thankful to have had the opportunity to experience it. Perhaps I'll be back to try my hand at another one of the camino routes in the future...
Wishing each of you serenity on your own "camino" :)
Abrazos,
Kelsey
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Finisterre: the "end of the world" (and the Camino)
The final journey from Cee to Finisterre on Monday was absolutely perfect. The weather was the exact opposite of what you'd want for hiking and climactic views of the ocean, but I didn't care at all. For the final 10 km I was completely drenched from the warm summer rain, water dripping off of my shorts, my hood, and my nose. In fact, I thought the rain made it much more poignant. To quote my dear friend Eli Mau, "The rain was like a baptism!" When I remembered that line while looking out over the beach as I neared the city of Fisterre, I literally laughed out loud because it was so suiting.
After getting settled in at the albergue, taking a nap, and eating dinner, I decided it was time to complete the final stage of the camino: walking the last 3km out to the lighthouse on Cape Finisterre. Considering the entire city was blanketed in fog, my expectations for some sort of amazing view out at the point were very low as I set out around 8:30pm. On my way up the hill, I passed about 20-30 people who were returning from the lighthouse, all of whom were a combination of angry and forlorn at not being granted the grand climax they were hoping for after walking all this way.
When I arrived at the lighthouse, the scene was no different: zero visibility and a light mist. The only way I could tell the ocean was directly below me was by the sound of the waves crashing against the rocky cliffs. Nonetheless, I set out to "tie a bow" on my camino experience by performing the traditional rituals: burning something from my trip in the rocky cliffside and tossing a stone I'd been carrying with me since I started into the sea. I opted to burn a hankerchief that I'd been using for the duration of my trip, since it had seen more blood, sweat, and tears than anything else I had, and I liked the symbolism. Just as I was finishing up with the burning process, another pilgrim named Joachim whom I'd met a couple days before arrived at the lighthouse and we gave each other a wave.
In a state of disbelief that it was all over, Joachim (who is 29 and an actor from Munich) and I sat on the rocks below the lighthouse for awhile debriefing our camino experiences. It's impossible to walk that long and avoid the opportunity for introspection, and he and I spent quite some time exchanging the lessons we'd learned and the resolutions we hoped to keep upon returning to our "real" lives. I'm not sure how long we sat there talking, but it was long enough for the weather to make a dramatic shift--suddenly the ocean was visible below us. Soon after, the skyline began to open up piece by piece, revealing the picturesque sunset all peregrinos hope for at the end of their journey. I'm not usually much of a believer in fate--instead opting for the more probable explanation of coincidence--but if Joachim hadn't shown up at the lighthouse and we hadn't engaged in interesting conversation, I'm sure I never would have been granted that amazing final camino experience. So thanks, universe!
Since I wasn't quite ready to rush back to the chaos of Santiago, I enjoyed a lazy day at a beautiful beach on the opposite side of the peninsula that Joachim introduced me to. While having breakfast (which is always a croissant and cafe con leche in Spain), I just happened to meet two lads from the PNW who attended Willamette. In true liberal arts undergrad fashion, we proceeded to debate anything and everything possible. Funny how the same conversation that I would have at a coffee shop in Bellingham can transpire around the world in a Spanish cafe.
After an uber- American lunch (hamburger and fries, anyone?), I said goodbye to Joachim and caught the 4:45 bus back to Santiago. It was a beautiful trip along the coast, each of the capes I had passed on my journey visible from the highway as it followed the shoreline...with Cabo Finisterre in the distance, the furthest west.
I'm SO glad I opted to spend three weeks of my trip walking the Camino de Santiago; it was the experience of a lifetime. I would recommend it to anyone and everyone!
More to come,
Kels
After getting settled in at the albergue, taking a nap, and eating dinner, I decided it was time to complete the final stage of the camino: walking the last 3km out to the lighthouse on Cape Finisterre. Considering the entire city was blanketed in fog, my expectations for some sort of amazing view out at the point were very low as I set out around 8:30pm. On my way up the hill, I passed about 20-30 people who were returning from the lighthouse, all of whom were a combination of angry and forlorn at not being granted the grand climax they were hoping for after walking all this way.
When I arrived at the lighthouse, the scene was no different: zero visibility and a light mist. The only way I could tell the ocean was directly below me was by the sound of the waves crashing against the rocky cliffs. Nonetheless, I set out to "tie a bow" on my camino experience by performing the traditional rituals: burning something from my trip in the rocky cliffside and tossing a stone I'd been carrying with me since I started into the sea. I opted to burn a hankerchief that I'd been using for the duration of my trip, since it had seen more blood, sweat, and tears than anything else I had, and I liked the symbolism. Just as I was finishing up with the burning process, another pilgrim named Joachim whom I'd met a couple days before arrived at the lighthouse and we gave each other a wave.
In a state of disbelief that it was all over, Joachim (who is 29 and an actor from Munich) and I sat on the rocks below the lighthouse for awhile debriefing our camino experiences. It's impossible to walk that long and avoid the opportunity for introspection, and he and I spent quite some time exchanging the lessons we'd learned and the resolutions we hoped to keep upon returning to our "real" lives. I'm not sure how long we sat there talking, but it was long enough for the weather to make a dramatic shift--suddenly the ocean was visible below us. Soon after, the skyline began to open up piece by piece, revealing the picturesque sunset all peregrinos hope for at the end of their journey. I'm not usually much of a believer in fate--instead opting for the more probable explanation of coincidence--but if Joachim hadn't shown up at the lighthouse and we hadn't engaged in interesting conversation, I'm sure I never would have been granted that amazing final camino experience. So thanks, universe!
Since I wasn't quite ready to rush back to the chaos of Santiago, I enjoyed a lazy day at a beautiful beach on the opposite side of the peninsula that Joachim introduced me to. While having breakfast (which is always a croissant and cafe con leche in Spain), I just happened to meet two lads from the PNW who attended Willamette. In true liberal arts undergrad fashion, we proceeded to debate anything and everything possible. Funny how the same conversation that I would have at a coffee shop in Bellingham can transpire around the world in a Spanish cafe.
After an uber- American lunch (hamburger and fries, anyone?), I said goodbye to Joachim and caught the 4:45 bus back to Santiago. It was a beautiful trip along the coast, each of the capes I had passed on my journey visible from the highway as it followed the shoreline...with Cabo Finisterre in the distance, the furthest west.
I'm SO glad I opted to spend three weeks of my trip walking the Camino de Santiago; it was the experience of a lifetime. I would recommend it to anyone and everyone!
More to come,
Kels
Monday, July 12, 2010
So behind with so much to say...
My, have I been slacking on the updates!!!
Instead of posting one uber-long blog, I'm going to break my updates into a couple posts and backdate them accordingly. Sorry to be tardy :(
Here's what I have to get you up to speed on:
* Arriving in Fisterre and wrapping up the camino experience
* Final camino post: lessons from the camino, continued
* Santiago part 2: reuniting with travel friends and meeting musicians
* La vida tranquila in A Coruna
Thanks for your patience and for following my journey :) I'll do my best to have the updates posted this weekend.
Happy Friday!
-Kels
Instead of posting one uber-long blog, I'm going to break my updates into a couple posts and backdate them accordingly. Sorry to be tardy :(
Here's what I have to get you up to speed on:
* Arriving in Fisterre and wrapping up the camino experience
* Final camino post: lessons from the camino, continued
* Santiago part 2: reuniting with travel friends and meeting musicians
* La vida tranquila in A Coruna
Thanks for your patience and for following my journey :) I'll do my best to have the updates posted this weekend.
Happy Friday!
-Kels
Final camino days + Spain wins the World Cup!!!
The last few days on the camino to Finisterre have been such a lovely way to wrap up this experience. The scenery has been phenomenal, the people personable, and the accomodations less crowded. I wasn't quite ready to be done with it all yet, so I opted to break the 90km journey into four stages:
Day 1 (Friday): 23 km
Day 2 (Saturday): 35 km
Day 3 (Sunday): 17 km
Day 4 (Monday): 15 km
The last two stages are along the coastline, so I really wanted to savor those days. I'm so glad I did; the towns of Cee, Corcubion, and Fisterre are some of my favorite spots from the whole journey. (But, I'll admit, their proximity to the ocean gives them an unfair advantage.) On the walk to Cee over the high moors, I met two sisters in their 40s from Ireland who were absolutely wonderful. They even gave me their contact information and insisted I come back to Europe sometime soon to come visit them in Ireland. I just may have to take them up on it! Plus, every single Irish man I've met on this trip as been smart, funny, and very attractive. Hmmm...
It was amazing to watch the world cup final here in Spain last night. I wish I could have been amongst the chaos of Madrid or Barcelona, but it was exciting nonetheless. Spaniards are still yelling in the streets and honking their horns this morning at 9:00am. I'm glad they didn't lose--I wonder what the reaction would have been...
Hope you all have a marvelous week!
-Kelsey
Day 1 (Friday): 23 km
Day 2 (Saturday): 35 km
Day 3 (Sunday): 17 km
Day 4 (Monday): 15 km
The last two stages are along the coastline, so I really wanted to savor those days. I'm so glad I did; the towns of Cee, Corcubion, and Fisterre are some of my favorite spots from the whole journey. (But, I'll admit, their proximity to the ocean gives them an unfair advantage.) On the walk to Cee over the high moors, I met two sisters in their 40s from Ireland who were absolutely wonderful. They even gave me their contact information and insisted I come back to Europe sometime soon to come visit them in Ireland. I just may have to take them up on it! Plus, every single Irish man I've met on this trip as been smart, funny, and very attractive. Hmmm...
It was amazing to watch the world cup final here in Spain last night. I wish I could have been amongst the chaos of Madrid or Barcelona, but it was exciting nonetheless. Spaniards are still yelling in the streets and honking their horns this morning at 9:00am. I'm glad they didn't lose--I wonder what the reaction would have been...
Hope you all have a marvelous week!
-Kelsey
Friday, July 9, 2010
To the coast, please!
Getting back on the Camino to Finisterre today felt really good; it was strange not to be out in nature for two days. I'm finding that I feel more at ease in the rural villiages than the big cities, too. Probably because it's less likely I'll get lost, ha!
The 22km (14.3 mile) stretch I walked today was absolutely gorgeous, particularly as I climbed the hill out of Santiago toward the forest. When I turned and looked back, the entire city was sillouetted against the sunny sky, the massive spires from the cathedral crowning it all. It was a fairly epic goodbye to all of the friends I left behind in Santiago. Another gorgeous section was walking through a town called Burguieros that had a magnificent bridge crossing the Tambre river. Pilgrims were flocking down to the water to swim in the section just before the river began cascading as a waterfall. Quite serene.
When I arrived at my destination today, I was ridiculously hungry because I hadn't stopped for lunch, opting to munch on an apple and some almonds I had in my pack and power on. As luck would have it, I discovered today is some sort of holiday and all of the grocery stores are closed...lovely. The cherry on top: I went to several bars and restaurants to find some chow, but none of their kitchens opened for food preparation until 8:00pm. I still can't quite adjust to the different timetable for meals in this country, even after three weeks!
Despite my tardy departure from Santiago at 9:30 this morning, I was the second peregrino to roll into the albergue today at 3:00pm. As I write this at 10:00pm, there are still people showing up, which is amazing to me. Even though only 5% of pilgrims continue on to Finisterre, securing lodging can be tricky because there are fewer albergues and the ones that exist are so much further apart. I hear it's quite competitive to find a bed in the next town, so I'm going to leave early tomorrow morning and hope for the best!
I guess I never really described what a pilgrim albergue is like, did I? Picture a sleeping porch at a fraternity: a large room with an obscene number of bunk beds, but B.Y.O. sleeping bag. These areas are almost always co-ed, and usually first come, first pick. I prefer this system...when they assign beds I am always relegated to the top bunk since I am young and "graceful". Please, there is no graceful way to climb into a bunk bed, and getting down is always precarious. These structures are almost always covered in people's wet clothing in the hopes that it will be dry by morning. At night the room is filled with a symphony of snores, dream-induced babbling, and nighttime flatulence--earplugs are essential. Bathrooms are usually seperated by gender, although in some of the older, lower-end albergues they aren't. If you're lucky, there will be three showers and three toilets per 40 people. I guess the fact that it's so much like college makes it do-able for me...plus the 10€ or less price tag is quite attractive. It's one hell of a lifestyle, though!
I realized today that I have 4 days to kill after I meet up in Santiago with some friends from Quebec that I made while travelling in Morocco. Upon having this epiphany, I made the spur of the moment decision to book a hostel in for two nights in A Coruna, a coastal town in the region of Spain I'm currently in that has several sandy beaches. It sounded too good to pass up, and I can get a train or bus there for pretty cheap. Plus, my tan lines from all this hiking are really horrendous and must be fixed...but my body is in much better bikini shape! :)
I hoping to make it to the coast in time for the World Cup final on Sunday...that would be a cool place to watch the game. The question is can I put in 65 kilometers in two days...?
Abrazos,
Kelsey
The 22km (14.3 mile) stretch I walked today was absolutely gorgeous, particularly as I climbed the hill out of Santiago toward the forest. When I turned and looked back, the entire city was sillouetted against the sunny sky, the massive spires from the cathedral crowning it all. It was a fairly epic goodbye to all of the friends I left behind in Santiago. Another gorgeous section was walking through a town called Burguieros that had a magnificent bridge crossing the Tambre river. Pilgrims were flocking down to the water to swim in the section just before the river began cascading as a waterfall. Quite serene.
When I arrived at my destination today, I was ridiculously hungry because I hadn't stopped for lunch, opting to munch on an apple and some almonds I had in my pack and power on. As luck would have it, I discovered today is some sort of holiday and all of the grocery stores are closed...lovely. The cherry on top: I went to several bars and restaurants to find some chow, but none of their kitchens opened for food preparation until 8:00pm. I still can't quite adjust to the different timetable for meals in this country, even after three weeks!
Despite my tardy departure from Santiago at 9:30 this morning, I was the second peregrino to roll into the albergue today at 3:00pm. As I write this at 10:00pm, there are still people showing up, which is amazing to me. Even though only 5% of pilgrims continue on to Finisterre, securing lodging can be tricky because there are fewer albergues and the ones that exist are so much further apart. I hear it's quite competitive to find a bed in the next town, so I'm going to leave early tomorrow morning and hope for the best!
I guess I never really described what a pilgrim albergue is like, did I? Picture a sleeping porch at a fraternity: a large room with an obscene number of bunk beds, but B.Y.O. sleeping bag. These areas are almost always co-ed, and usually first come, first pick. I prefer this system...when they assign beds I am always relegated to the top bunk since I am young and "graceful". Please, there is no graceful way to climb into a bunk bed, and getting down is always precarious. These structures are almost always covered in people's wet clothing in the hopes that it will be dry by morning. At night the room is filled with a symphony of snores, dream-induced babbling, and nighttime flatulence--earplugs are essential. Bathrooms are usually seperated by gender, although in some of the older, lower-end albergues they aren't. If you're lucky, there will be three showers and three toilets per 40 people. I guess the fact that it's so much like college makes it do-able for me...plus the 10€ or less price tag is quite attractive. It's one hell of a lifestyle, though!
I realized today that I have 4 days to kill after I meet up in Santiago with some friends from Quebec that I made while travelling in Morocco. Upon having this epiphany, I made the spur of the moment decision to book a hostel in for two nights in A Coruna, a coastal town in the region of Spain I'm currently in that has several sandy beaches. It sounded too good to pass up, and I can get a train or bus there for pretty cheap. Plus, my tan lines from all this hiking are really horrendous and must be fixed...but my body is in much better bikini shape! :)
I hoping to make it to the coast in time for the World Cup final on Sunday...that would be a cool place to watch the game. The question is can I put in 65 kilometers in two days...?
Abrazos,
Kelsey
Santiago! (aka: the city of many reunions)
After two weeks and 202 miles, I arrived Wednesday in Santiago de Compostela--the grand finale of the Camino de Santiago. The atmosphere in this city is buzzing with tourism because this is a holy year; just as I arrived at the cathedral and began to take it all in, a group of three Spainish girls asked if they could take a picture with me. Confused, I asked why...to which they responded, "We wanted a picture with a real pilgrim." Hilarious.
After settling in and getting cleaned up, a bunch of us reunited to watch the Spain vs. Germany match at a bar in the city center. It was really neat, almost every person I befriended along the way showed up for a huge camino reunion love fest. The Germans I was with were quite disappointed in the final outcome, but my did the Spaniards go crazy! Drums and horns and parading around in the streets yelling...it was pretty wild.
Due to the celebratory atmosphere, my friends Ralph and Daragh (from Germany and Ireland, respectively) and myself decided to go out Spanish-style, bar hopping from one place til the next until the nightlife stops. Which ended up being around 7:00am. Let's just say I slept in pretty late the next day...
Thursday was a laid back, low key day to wander around the city and pick up my compostela, the certificate verifying completion of the Camino. While at the pilgrim office, I ran into a lovely young woman named Veronica from Texas whom I had met at a few different points along the way. She and I ended up grabbing lunch and trading stories on the camino and life. It's really strange--and a bit sad--to realize that I'll be meeting all of these people, sharing a unique experience with them, and then likely never seeing them again. Not quite sure how to feel about it all just yet.
In the middle of the day a bout of "tormenta de verano" (thunder of summer) shook the city and led to pouring rain. The busy city came to a standstill, people huddling under eves watching the city get soaked, waiting for the storm to pass. I loved the sudden downpour; the huge drops and abruptness of it all reminded me of home. I walked through the streets Washingtonian style--sans umbrella--and let myself feel like I was in Seattle or Bellingham or Olympia again for a moment.
As for now, I'm off to start the next (and final) leg of my camino journey: Santiago to Finisterre. It's just under 90km and should take about 3-4 days to reach my final destination, the lighthouse on the edge of the coast that was believed to be the end of the world in mideval times. The symbolism of this endpoint is much more poignant for me than the cathedral at Santiago, which is why I opted to continue. Plus, if I'm going to commit to walking across much of Spain, I may as well walk until I hit the ocean!
Hope you are all enjoying the beautiful sunny weather in the states (or in WA a least)!
Lots of love from NW Spain,
Kels
After settling in and getting cleaned up, a bunch of us reunited to watch the Spain vs. Germany match at a bar in the city center. It was really neat, almost every person I befriended along the way showed up for a huge camino reunion love fest. The Germans I was with were quite disappointed in the final outcome, but my did the Spaniards go crazy! Drums and horns and parading around in the streets yelling...it was pretty wild.
Due to the celebratory atmosphere, my friends Ralph and Daragh (from Germany and Ireland, respectively) and myself decided to go out Spanish-style, bar hopping from one place til the next until the nightlife stops. Which ended up being around 7:00am. Let's just say I slept in pretty late the next day...
Thursday was a laid back, low key day to wander around the city and pick up my compostela, the certificate verifying completion of the Camino. While at the pilgrim office, I ran into a lovely young woman named Veronica from Texas whom I had met at a few different points along the way. She and I ended up grabbing lunch and trading stories on the camino and life. It's really strange--and a bit sad--to realize that I'll be meeting all of these people, sharing a unique experience with them, and then likely never seeing them again. Not quite sure how to feel about it all just yet.In the middle of the day a bout of "tormenta de verano" (thunder of summer) shook the city and led to pouring rain. The busy city came to a standstill, people huddling under eves watching the city get soaked, waiting for the storm to pass. I loved the sudden downpour; the huge drops and abruptness of it all reminded me of home. I walked through the streets Washingtonian style--sans umbrella--and let myself feel like I was in Seattle or Bellingham or Olympia again for a moment.
As for now, I'm off to start the next (and final) leg of my camino journey: Santiago to Finisterre. It's just under 90km and should take about 3-4 days to reach my final destination, the lighthouse on the edge of the coast that was believed to be the end of the world in mideval times. The symbolism of this endpoint is much more poignant for me than the cathedral at Santiago, which is why I opted to continue. Plus, if I'm going to commit to walking across much of Spain, I may as well walk until I hit the ocean!
Hope you are all enjoying the beautiful sunny weather in the states (or in WA a least)!
Lots of love from NW Spain,
Kels
Monday, July 5, 2010
Quick update!
Hello everyone!
The last few days have taken me to cities that don´t boast wifi, so I haven´t been able to update from my ipod, and the swarm of new pilgrims who join the camino in Sarria means that all of the internet cafes are completely occupied. In order to receive a compostela (the certificate signifying completion of the Camino de Santiago), one must complete a minimum of 100km by foot or 200km by bicycle. The influx of people changes the tone of the camino drastically, but I´m trying my best to roll with it. Not everyone has several weeks to dedicate to this beast, and 100km is better than zero km of physical activity in my mind :)
Last night for Independence Day I had cheap beer (albeit Spanish beer) and a hamburger in honor of my home country. An English man at the bar ordered a cup of tea to be ornery, but it was all in good fun. I spent the evening talking with a group of fellow English speakers from Ireland, South Africa, and Germany. I love practicing my Spanish, but it was really nice to have easy conversation in my native tongue with folks my age.
As far as the Camino goes, here are the stats:
Distance Covered thus far: 283.0 km (175.8 miles)
Distance remaining to reach Santiago: 42.3 km (26.3 miles)
I cannot believe how far I´ve pulled my body across this country. It´s been quite the journey! I´m looking forward to having some time to decompress and evaluate it all when I continue out to Finisterre (on the Atlantic) after Santiago; there will be WAY fewer people and after the fanfare of Santiago. I´m looking forward to the experience in town at the end of the Camino with the other pilgrims, though. It´s sure to be unlike anything I´ve ever experienced.
I´ll try to provide a more coherent update in Santiago. In the mean time, sending lots of love back to the US of A for all of the amazing things I take for granted (like stores that are open in the afternoon and customer service...).
Hope you are all happy and well!
Mil abrazos,
Kelsey
The last few days have taken me to cities that don´t boast wifi, so I haven´t been able to update from my ipod, and the swarm of new pilgrims who join the camino in Sarria means that all of the internet cafes are completely occupied. In order to receive a compostela (the certificate signifying completion of the Camino de Santiago), one must complete a minimum of 100km by foot or 200km by bicycle. The influx of people changes the tone of the camino drastically, but I´m trying my best to roll with it. Not everyone has several weeks to dedicate to this beast, and 100km is better than zero km of physical activity in my mind :)
Last night for Independence Day I had cheap beer (albeit Spanish beer) and a hamburger in honor of my home country. An English man at the bar ordered a cup of tea to be ornery, but it was all in good fun. I spent the evening talking with a group of fellow English speakers from Ireland, South Africa, and Germany. I love practicing my Spanish, but it was really nice to have easy conversation in my native tongue with folks my age.
As far as the Camino goes, here are the stats:Distance Covered thus far: 283.0 km (175.8 miles)
Distance remaining to reach Santiago: 42.3 km (26.3 miles)
I cannot believe how far I´ve pulled my body across this country. It´s been quite the journey! I´m looking forward to having some time to decompress and evaluate it all when I continue out to Finisterre (on the Atlantic) after Santiago; there will be WAY fewer people and after the fanfare of Santiago. I´m looking forward to the experience in town at the end of the Camino with the other pilgrims, though. It´s sure to be unlike anything I´ve ever experienced.
I´ll try to provide a more coherent update in Santiago. In the mean time, sending lots of love back to the US of A for all of the amazing things I take for granted (like stores that are open in the afternoon and customer service...).
Hope you are all happy and well!
Mil abrazos,
Kelsey
Friday, July 2, 2010
My sorry state in Sarria
To be completely honest, the last few days on the Camino have wiped me out emotionally. I have taken the wrong route at least once every day for the last three days despite consulting my guidebook, asking locals, and clarifying with other pilgrims. Today en route from Samos to Sarria I hit a wall (literally) and had to scale it to get back toward the highway so I at least knew I was pointed in the right direction. Getting lost in the middle of the forest in rural northern Spain is a little unnerving...and it's setting my arrival date in Santiago back a bit. I've covered so many unnecessary, unproductive kilometers.
Almost every other pilgrim I've talked to has gotten lost since we entered into Galicia, too. (Spain is divided into different regional governments; I was in Castilla y Leon before.) The language is a bit different (Galego instead of Castilian) and the signage is confusing at times.
But really, I think my sour mood stems from the fact that I'm feeling a bit lonely. When I stopped to rest and have coffee this morning, everyone in the cafe halted their conversation and looked me over as if I were invading their space. I know my huge backpack and hiking gear make me stand out in a crowd, but this city is teeming with pilgrims with a similar get-up. The language difference here makes it a bit harder for me to communicate with some folks, too. I guess I just felt extra foreign today...But hey, that's a good lesson too.
118 kilometers (about 73 miles) left to cover until I reach Santiago de Compostela. So far, I've walked about 210 kilometers (130.5 miles) and my body is feeling the repercussions...This is really testing my mental and physical capacity.
One benefit of getting lost and staying in Samos last night was having the opportunity to tour the Benedictine monastery, which is the oldest of it's kind in the western world. Listening to the monks chant last night in the jaw-dropping cathedral was pretty amazing; as their harmonies reasonated throughout the enormous building I drifted off to another place.
Goal for tomorrow: DO NOT get lost!!!
Have a marvelous weekend, everyone. Eat some veggies for me...they are difficult to find in restaurants here.
Lots of love,
Kels
Almost every other pilgrim I've talked to has gotten lost since we entered into Galicia, too. (Spain is divided into different regional governments; I was in Castilla y Leon before.) The language is a bit different (Galego instead of Castilian) and the signage is confusing at times.
But really, I think my sour mood stems from the fact that I'm feeling a bit lonely. When I stopped to rest and have coffee this morning, everyone in the cafe halted their conversation and looked me over as if I were invading their space. I know my huge backpack and hiking gear make me stand out in a crowd, but this city is teeming with pilgrims with a similar get-up. The language difference here makes it a bit harder for me to communicate with some folks, too. I guess I just felt extra foreign today...But hey, that's a good lesson too.
118 kilometers (about 73 miles) left to cover until I reach Santiago de Compostela. So far, I've walked about 210 kilometers (130.5 miles) and my body is feeling the repercussions...This is really testing my mental and physical capacity.
One benefit of getting lost and staying in Samos last night was having the opportunity to tour the Benedictine monastery, which is the oldest of it's kind in the western world. Listening to the monks chant last night in the jaw-dropping cathedral was pretty amazing; as their harmonies reasonated throughout the enormous building I drifted off to another place.
Goal for tomorrow: DO NOT get lost!!!
Have a marvelous weekend, everyone. Eat some veggies for me...they are difficult to find in restaurants here.
Lots of love,
Kels
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Lessons from the Camino
After an indulgent night in my own room without a bunkmate or anyone to share a bathroom with, I left Cacabelos well rested and refreshed: clean clothes, clear head, full belly. Since I hadn't stayed at the albergue de los peregrinos, finding my way out of town and back to the camino was a bit tricky. But, after asking for directions 3+ times and wandering around, I stumbled upon one of the symbols I have come to know and love: una flecha amarilla (a yellow arrow).
I thought that walking the camino was going to be going to be a giant metaphor for me laboring to find inner peace with this stage of uncertainty in my life and (hopefully) finding a way through it. In reality, there is also quite a bit of me literally trying to find my way. Especially in the larger cities like Leon and Ponsferrada, it's easy to lose sight of the comforting signs and symbols that you are on the right path: yellow arrows, conch shells, or more explicitly, signs that say "El Camino de Santiago" in bright, bold print. The more distractions, the more options, the easier it is to lose your way. Hmm...I guess the metaphor holds anyway--it just takes on another layer.
That's the beauty of this journey on the camino, everything is a life lesson.
*The less you carry, the easier the journey.
*Work hard today and you can rest tomorrow.
*The early bird catches the worm (and avoids the sweltering heat!).
*Be kind and helpful to others, and that same kindness will likely be returned to you.
*When in Rome (or in this case, Spain) do as the Romans (Spaniards) do--don't let fear or elitism cause you to miss out on an enriching experience.
*Help make things easier for those who will come after you, just as those who came before you did for you. The arrows fashioned from rocks that are left in dubious spots by previous peregrinos help me avoid wasting precious time and energy on a misleading, false pathway.
Many more lessons are sure to be revealed... This is only my 6th day, afterall!
One revelation stands out above anything else for me though: I am stronger than I think I am. This has become my mantra when I feel like quitting...because it's true.
My skin is a bit bronzer (despite ample SPF 70, I promise dad!), waist a bit thinner (despite the cerveza, bocadillos, and helado), and perspective a bit shifted. There is so much more to life than the rat race to "succeed" by American standards. I will always be an American girl, but I hope to carry some of the European outlook on life back home with me to the States.
Wishing each of you wellness,
Kelsey
I thought that walking the camino was going to be going to be a giant metaphor for me laboring to find inner peace with this stage of uncertainty in my life and (hopefully) finding a way through it. In reality, there is also quite a bit of me literally trying to find my way. Especially in the larger cities like Leon and Ponsferrada, it's easy to lose sight of the comforting signs and symbols that you are on the right path: yellow arrows, conch shells, or more explicitly, signs that say "El Camino de Santiago" in bright, bold print. The more distractions, the more options, the easier it is to lose your way. Hmm...I guess the metaphor holds anyway--it just takes on another layer.
That's the beauty of this journey on the camino, everything is a life lesson.
*The less you carry, the easier the journey.
*Work hard today and you can rest tomorrow.
*The early bird catches the worm (and avoids the sweltering heat!).
*Be kind and helpful to others, and that same kindness will likely be returned to you.
*When in Rome (or in this case, Spain) do as the Romans (Spaniards) do--don't let fear or elitism cause you to miss out on an enriching experience.
*Help make things easier for those who will come after you, just as those who came before you did for you. The arrows fashioned from rocks that are left in dubious spots by previous peregrinos help me avoid wasting precious time and energy on a misleading, false pathway.
Many more lessons are sure to be revealed... This is only my 6th day, afterall!
One revelation stands out above anything else for me though: I am stronger than I think I am. This has become my mantra when I feel like quitting...because it's true.
My skin is a bit bronzer (despite ample SPF 70, I promise dad!), waist a bit thinner (despite the cerveza, bocadillos, and helado), and perspective a bit shifted. There is so much more to life than the rat race to "succeed" by American standards. I will always be an American girl, but I hope to carry some of the European outlook on life back home with me to the States.
Wishing each of you wellness,
Kelsey
Monday, June 28, 2010
Hitting a rough patch and rallying.
I could not get out of Riego de Ambros fast enough this morning. As mentioned, there were two of us at the Albergue last night, which is really strange compared to what I've seen thus far. What I thought was going to be a good night of sleep turned into a nightmare when the other pilgrim staying there, a German man in his late 60s or early 70s, opened the door to the room where my bunk was and asked if I wanted to come sleep in his room. I was shocked and appalled, but tried to keep my cool as I said, "No thank you sir, I'd prefer to sleep alone tonight." He proceeded to touch my face and say, "But I'd rather sleep with you." Ugh...so not okay. All of my manners went out the window at that point; I pointed to the door and said, "Please leave. Get out. Now!" Let's just say I slept restlessly last night, as I felt I had to be on guard. It was a bit of a terrifying experience, as I had no one to call for help or backup...but I'm glad I didn't have to do so. I practically sprinted out of there at daybreak though.
The cherry on top was when I finished the rough decent into Molinaseca, I went to pull my camera out of the side pocket of my bag I was in such a rush that it went flying out of its case and both the lens and the LCD screen broke. How is one supposed to record 7 weeks of traveling in Europe without a functional camera?! I know material possessions aren't important in the grand scheme of life, but it was a major bummer. At this point I was physically and emotionally exhausted, which resulted in me crying and feeling sorry for myself for the next several miles.
Somehow, the camino worked it's ambulatory psychotherapy magic on me though, and by the time I reached the beautiful mideval town of Ponsferrada 8.5 miles in to my journey today I was ready to take charge and fix things. Being welcomed to the city by a mighty-looking castle helped solidify my resolve.
In this case, solving problems meant throwing money at them. I decided I was unwilling to go without a digital camera, so I allowed myself to purchase a new, lower-end digital camera for 135€ so I could continue documenting my travels. Tonight I am staying in a hotel for 35€ as well, where I can get a good night of sleep without any harassment, enjoy a full breakfast tomorrow morning, and have my laundry done for a few Euros more. Washing my clothes in sinks is fine, but every now and then it's worth it to pay for a proper washing. I also found a functional voltage converter down the street for 1€, which means I can ditch my current one that weighs nearly a pound and doesn't work in most outlets. Lastly I was able to buy some fresh vegetables, which I've really been missing. Spanish cuisine includes alot of ham and carbs, but not a ton of veggies.
There were so many emotional fluctuations today that it feels as though more than 18 miles have been walked and more than 16 hours have transpired. As for now, I'm going to take a moment to be thankful for all the good fortune that I have, and then enjoy a long night of uninterrupted sleep. Let's hope, anyway!
Lesson learned: Don't mope--it doesn't solve anything. Take control, be proactive, and do what you can to shift your perspective. Ride it out, and th situation will likely improve.
Wishing you all a less emotional Monday! ;)
Abrazos,
Kelsey
The cherry on top was when I finished the rough decent into Molinaseca, I went to pull my camera out of the side pocket of my bag I was in such a rush that it went flying out of its case and both the lens and the LCD screen broke. How is one supposed to record 7 weeks of traveling in Europe without a functional camera?! I know material possessions aren't important in the grand scheme of life, but it was a major bummer. At this point I was physically and emotionally exhausted, which resulted in me crying and feeling sorry for myself for the next several miles.
Somehow, the camino worked it's ambulatory psychotherapy magic on me though, and by the time I reached the beautiful mideval town of Ponsferrada 8.5 miles in to my journey today I was ready to take charge and fix things. Being welcomed to the city by a mighty-looking castle helped solidify my resolve.In this case, solving problems meant throwing money at them. I decided I was unwilling to go without a digital camera, so I allowed myself to purchase a new, lower-end digital camera for 135€ so I could continue documenting my travels. Tonight I am staying in a hotel for 35€ as well, where I can get a good night of sleep without any harassment, enjoy a full breakfast tomorrow morning, and have my laundry done for a few Euros more. Washing my clothes in sinks is fine, but every now and then it's worth it to pay for a proper washing. I also found a functional voltage converter down the street for 1€, which means I can ditch my current one that weighs nearly a pound and doesn't work in most outlets. Lastly I was able to buy some fresh vegetables, which I've really been missing. Spanish cuisine includes alot of ham and carbs, but not a ton of veggies.
There were so many emotional fluctuations today that it feels as though more than 18 miles have been walked and more than 16 hours have transpired. As for now, I'm going to take a moment to be thankful for all the good fortune that I have, and then enjoy a long night of uninterrupted sleep. Let's hope, anyway!
Lesson learned: Don't mope--it doesn't solve anything. Take control, be proactive, and do what you can to shift your perspective. Ride it out, and th situation will likely improve.
Wishing you all a less emotional Monday! ;)
Abrazos,
Kelsey
Sunday, June 27, 2010
The climb up from Rabanal this morning was breathtaking. Rolling green hills as far as the eye can see dotted with wind turbines, wildflowers everywhere, blue sky...the landscape appears to have escaped unscathed from mankind's actions. The camino is a wonderful way to see a very different side of Spain. The tiny mountain villiages I've been staying in make Madrid look like a different country entirely!
Climbing uphill is a workout, but I really don't mind it. In fact, the first 5 miles this morning reminded me of hiking in the Pacific Northwest: battle your way up a steep incline and you'll be rewarded with a hell of a view. It was fun to make the trip with Alex and Owen too, the Irish gentlemen from last night. Go figure: we discussed politics, the separation of church and state (or lack thereof), and gender roles...You know, just the typical lighthearted banter that arises while walking an obscenely long distance in the heat.
The only problem is that what goes up must come down, and the decent today really did a number on my joints. I don't usually have such a fast inflammatory reaction, but my hips, knees, and ankles were screaming at me today around mile 13. The path down from the peak was steep, covered in loose fragments of rock from the eroding hillside, and carved in a bit of a "V" shape from water runoff from mile 7 to mile 15.
Due to these conditions, I had to be extremely zoned in to the ground in front of me to ensure I didn't break an ankle or tumble down the mountain. The 26 pounds on my back coupled with the task of setting the pace (and pathway) for the two Irish fellows I was hiking with certainly didn't make matters any easier. I made it through the toughest decent, but opted to stop short of my goal location by about 2 miles because my body was yelling at me. When I first turned up at the albergue in this tiny town I was mad, in pain, and feeling a bit ill, but after a shower and a 3 hour nap my body and spirits improved. Also, I'm one of only two people staying here tonight, so I'll be able to catch up on precious sleep. I'm taking it as a silver lining, and I'll just try to make up the lost ground tomorrow...it's much flatter terrain!
Of all of the pilgrims I have interacted with, I've noticed that I'm the only woman traveling the camino alone who is under 30. A group of Spainards tackling the camino by bicycle stopped me because they were taken aback 1) because I was a woman traveling alone, and 2) because I was an American in Spain on the camino. One of them said to me, "I have to give you some credit...Most Americans don't even know where Spain is! They think it's a part of Mexico, just south of their border! And you aren't walking around speaking only English! Good for you."
I was part flattered and part appalled--is this the prevailing opinion in Spain? It reaffirmed that as a traveler, I am also serving as a representation of "Americans in general" as well as a bit of an ambassador for the US. I'm grateful for all of the priviledges that being a woman in America has afforded me, but damn, there are a lot of people I've met from other places around the world on this trip who think we are real asses. Hopefully I can work to challenge that opinion one "buenos dias!" and kind smile at a time.
Wishing you all wellness. Take care of your bodies; listen to them when they yell at you!
Lots of love,
Kels
Climbing uphill is a workout, but I really don't mind it. In fact, the first 5 miles this morning reminded me of hiking in the Pacific Northwest: battle your way up a steep incline and you'll be rewarded with a hell of a view. It was fun to make the trip with Alex and Owen too, the Irish gentlemen from last night. Go figure: we discussed politics, the separation of church and state (or lack thereof), and gender roles...You know, just the typical lighthearted banter that arises while walking an obscenely long distance in the heat.
The only problem is that what goes up must come down, and the decent today really did a number on my joints. I don't usually have such a fast inflammatory reaction, but my hips, knees, and ankles were screaming at me today around mile 13. The path down from the peak was steep, covered in loose fragments of rock from the eroding hillside, and carved in a bit of a "V" shape from water runoff from mile 7 to mile 15.
Due to these conditions, I had to be extremely zoned in to the ground in front of me to ensure I didn't break an ankle or tumble down the mountain. The 26 pounds on my back coupled with the task of setting the pace (and pathway) for the two Irish fellows I was hiking with certainly didn't make matters any easier. I made it through the toughest decent, but opted to stop short of my goal location by about 2 miles because my body was yelling at me. When I first turned up at the albergue in this tiny town I was mad, in pain, and feeling a bit ill, but after a shower and a 3 hour nap my body and spirits improved. Also, I'm one of only two people staying here tonight, so I'll be able to catch up on precious sleep. I'm taking it as a silver lining, and I'll just try to make up the lost ground tomorrow...it's much flatter terrain!
Of all of the pilgrims I have interacted with, I've noticed that I'm the only woman traveling the camino alone who is under 30. A group of Spainards tackling the camino by bicycle stopped me because they were taken aback 1) because I was a woman traveling alone, and 2) because I was an American in Spain on the camino. One of them said to me, "I have to give you some credit...Most Americans don't even know where Spain is! They think it's a part of Mexico, just south of their border! And you aren't walking around speaking only English! Good for you."
I was part flattered and part appalled--is this the prevailing opinion in Spain? It reaffirmed that as a traveler, I am also serving as a representation of "Americans in general" as well as a bit of an ambassador for the US. I'm grateful for all of the priviledges that being a woman in America has afforded me, but damn, there are a lot of people I've met from other places around the world on this trip who think we are real asses. Hopefully I can work to challenge that opinion one "buenos dias!" and kind smile at a time.
Wishing you all wellness. Take care of your bodies; listen to them when they yell at you!
Lots of love,
Kels
Saturday, June 26, 2010
The camino bites back on day 3...
After a phenomenal day on the camino yesterday, I settled in to the albergue as I usually do: shower, laundry, grab something to refuel my weary body, and recount the day in my journal. I treated myself to dinner at a restaurant in plaza mayor (a large, open public square surrounded by beautiful buildings and restaurants) in Astorga, which even included TVs outside on the terrace so patrons could watch the futbol game. While I was there, I met another pilgrim named Ignacio from Barcelona, who was quite patient with me as I practiced my Spanish with him.
Much to my surprise, when I returned to the albergue, Ignacio was there talking with another gentleman from Finland named Sven whom I had befriended earlier in the day. The three of us made quite the group as we hung out on the back porch of the albergue drinking wine, trying to communicate in a silly mix of English and Spanish, and laughing boisterously. We decided to head back to plaza mayor to watch the Spain versus Chile world cup match at 8:30 instead of going to bed like the rest of our peregrino counterparts. It was so much fun to watch the game amongst the incredibly passionate Spainish fans wrapped in flags and cursing at the screen :)
This morning was a little rough; it took my body about a mile or two to accept that 1) yes, this pack is damn heavy 2) it's not coming off for several hours, and 3) yes, it is going to have to keep moving despite the pain and heat. Once it accepted all of these inevitables, the pain subsided and I felt fine.
Until around mile 12, that is. I could feel the blisters cropping up (between my big and second toe...sort of a strange spot) so I attempted to fashion some preventative padding, which allowed me to make it to Rabenal del Camino. But it sure wasn't pretty when I had to drain those things with a knife. I'm in good company though; every pilgrim's feet are quite battered, masked by elaborate bandaging. We'll all be on the camino by 7:00 am tomorrow to begin the accent to La Cruz de Ferro, which is at an altitude of 4,940 ft. Several other people are complaining about it and worried about how difficult it will be, but it seems pretty tame compared to Mount Si and countless other Northwest hikes. Hopefully I'm not getting ahead of myself in saying that...
I'm really enjoying the "pilgrim" life, it's very tranquil. The terrain in this part of the country reminds me of Grand Canyon National Park: red, rocky earth, rugged shrubbery, and short conifers that smell like Christmas-time in the heat. The way the landscape changes as I move toward the coast is pretty amazing.
There are some really fun Irish guys who are my age at the albergue I'm stating in tonight, which will make this evening entertaining. One of the aspects of the camino I'm enjoying most are the relationships that are formed with fellow travelers. There are several of us who move at a similar pace, so we often see each other at the albergue in the town we've set our sights on. Interestingly enough though, most of the time while I'm hiking I can't see another soul ahead or behind me. Very curious...
I'm off to socialize before it's time to turn in for the night. I hear thunder outside (which today I learned is "tormenta" in Spanish...how cool is that?!), but here's hoping for decent hiking weather in the morning!!!
Abrazos,
Kels
P.S. Please forgive the glaringly obvious spelling and gramatical errors in these posts. As most of you know, I am usually a diligent spell-checker/proofreader, but most albergues with free internet have a 15 minute limit. I hope the resulting posts aren't too painful too look at ;)
Much to my surprise, when I returned to the albergue, Ignacio was there talking with another gentleman from Finland named Sven whom I had befriended earlier in the day. The three of us made quite the group as we hung out on the back porch of the albergue drinking wine, trying to communicate in a silly mix of English and Spanish, and laughing boisterously. We decided to head back to plaza mayor to watch the Spain versus Chile world cup match at 8:30 instead of going to bed like the rest of our peregrino counterparts. It was so much fun to watch the game amongst the incredibly passionate Spainish fans wrapped in flags and cursing at the screen :)
This morning was a little rough; it took my body about a mile or two to accept that 1) yes, this pack is damn heavy 2) it's not coming off for several hours, and 3) yes, it is going to have to keep moving despite the pain and heat. Once it accepted all of these inevitables, the pain subsided and I felt fine.
Until around mile 12, that is. I could feel the blisters cropping up (between my big and second toe...sort of a strange spot) so I attempted to fashion some preventative padding, which allowed me to make it to Rabenal del Camino. But it sure wasn't pretty when I had to drain those things with a knife. I'm in good company though; every pilgrim's feet are quite battered, masked by elaborate bandaging. We'll all be on the camino by 7:00 am tomorrow to begin the accent to La Cruz de Ferro, which is at an altitude of 4,940 ft. Several other people are complaining about it and worried about how difficult it will be, but it seems pretty tame compared to Mount Si and countless other Northwest hikes. Hopefully I'm not getting ahead of myself in saying that...
I'm really enjoying the "pilgrim" life, it's very tranquil. The terrain in this part of the country reminds me of Grand Canyon National Park: red, rocky earth, rugged shrubbery, and short conifers that smell like Christmas-time in the heat. The way the landscape changes as I move toward the coast is pretty amazing.
There are some really fun Irish guys who are my age at the albergue I'm stating in tonight, which will make this evening entertaining. One of the aspects of the camino I'm enjoying most are the relationships that are formed with fellow travelers. There are several of us who move at a similar pace, so we often see each other at the albergue in the town we've set our sights on. Interestingly enough though, most of the time while I'm hiking I can't see another soul ahead or behind me. Very curious...
I'm off to socialize before it's time to turn in for the night. I hear thunder outside (which today I learned is "tormenta" in Spanish...how cool is that?!), but here's hoping for decent hiking weather in the morning!!!
Abrazos,
Kels
P.S. Please forgive the glaringly obvious spelling and gramatical errors in these posts. As most of you know, I am usually a diligent spell-checker/proofreader, but most albergues with free internet have a 15 minute limit. I hope the resulting posts aren't too painful too look at ;)
Friday, June 25, 2010
Day 2 of El Camino de Santiago...¡más facil que el primer día!
When I headed out the door of the albergue at 6:45am, I was one of the first perigrinos to leave Villadangos this morning. I´m glad I got myself going too--I was able to witness a spectacular sunrise over the town and endless fields of crops as I walked down the Camino. The smell of the fields as I left Villadangos immediately took me back to my days at Black Hills High School, where that same pungent smell associated with livestock and agriculture would greet me as I turned into school each morning.
I really enjoy the solitude, the challenge, and the solidarity of the Camino. The wildflowers that frame much of the path smell amazing; my favorites are a beautiful red and have delicate, fluttering petals like poppies. They always seem to appear when I´m feeling a bit weary, along with a butterfly that will dance in front of me over the camino.
Todays section from Villadangos to Astorga was about 20 miles, which surprisingly, felt easier than yesterday´s 15. I think it was a combination of the beautiful fields, great conversation with another pilgrim named Daniel from Uruguay, and (yes, I´ll admit it) some great tunes from my iPod. There was a really tough couple miles around the 15-16 mark, but just as I began to really tire a man appeared on the horizon with a wagon full of refreshments like a mirage. It was absolutely brilliant. Shortly thereafter, the oppresive heat from the sun dissapated the sun hid behind some clouds, as though the universe was saying, "Ok Kelsey, we´ll give you a break for a bit."
I really enjoy the solitude, the challenge, and the solidarity of the Camino. The wildflowers that frame much of the path smell amazing; my favorites are a beautiful red and have delicate, fluttering petals like poppies. They always seem to appear when I´m feeling a bit weary, along with a butterfly that will dance in front of me over the camino.Passing through Hospital de Órbigo was pretty amazing. There is an impressively old bridge that leads you into the city, and to the left there is a jousting arena set up...perhaps they will be holding a mideval tournament soon? No sé, but it was really amusing to stumble across. I stopped in town for a quick café con leche to refuel for the next ten miles. Back on the trail I met Daniel, and we were able to sustain a conversation in a combination of broken Spanish and English for the next ten miles, exchanging stories of heartbreak and travel adventures. It helped make the second grueling half less taxing.
Living out of my pack is becoming easier and less frustrating. I haven´t worn a lick of makeup for five days, which is pretty liberating to be honest. Let´s just say I´m not getting many second looks from the men around here, though ;) Today, even with the extra weight of three liters of water in my pack, it felt lighter...less like a large toddler clinging to my back for mile after mile. I´m hoping this trend continues!
Well, I´m off to find some good chow and take a siesta. I´m treating myself to dinner out in Astorga tonight instead of whipping up pasta again at the albergue.
Sending love from BEAUTIFUL northern Spain!
Abrazos,
Kelsey
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Day 1 of El Camino de Santiago
After a crazy day of traveling yesterday (plane to Madrid, bus to León) I finally found the pilgrim´s albergue and settled in for a night of rest. It´s a very cool experience, meeting people from all over the world and listening to why they are embarking on the Camino. Meals are usually communal, there is a kitchen if you´d like to prepare your own food, and the fare is only 4 Euro a night.Today I walked from León to Villadangos del Páramo, which was about 15 miles. I had originally intended to walk 20, but the heat forced me to surrender. As I left town in León at 7:00 am, the Spainards my age were just leaving the bars and were putting on quite the show outside the main cathedral in town (pictured at the left). As I walked past, I saw two people violently expel the contents of their stomach and another man relieve himself as I neared him, which he found quite amusing. It made me a little mad to see people blatantly disrespecting such a beautiful part of their city.
Walking the Camino started out lovely, with the sun not yet overhead and blazing. The fields I passed through were colored with yellow and red wildflowers (the colors of Spain) that smelled wonderful. Oftentimes butterflies would cross my path too, which was strange because I never saw them anywhere else in the field but next to the camino. This is going to be a test of my willpower and endurance, but I´m really enjoying the reprive from rushing around to see tourist attractions.
I´m going to try to made it to Astorga tomorrow, which is about 20 miles...I´m really hoping I won´t be sore. For now, I´m off to take a siesta and rest up!
As we pilgrims say to one another, "Buen Camino!"
I hope the road of life is treating each of you well :)
Abrazos,
Kelsey
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Pushing my comfort level in Marrakech
Apologies for not updating sooner; Morocco ended up being a whirlwind. Two days to see the city probably would have been enough, but when combined with meeting new people and socializing, it felt a little chaotic...but in a good way.
The riad experience was amazing; you are treated like family by the owners, and most of the guests hang out in a central open-air courtyard talking, drinking mint tea, and smoking shisha. We had a really fun group of twenty-somethings from all over the world: Canada, Brazil, Australia, New Zealand, Germany, Slovokia, and the US. We all had dinner together both nights I was there and stayed up talking and laughing far later than I should have when I had to catch a 8:00 flight back to Madrid. Two Canadian women from Quebec I befriended just happen to be in Santiago de Compostela around the same time I'll be passing through on the camino, so we're hoping to meet up again while all of us are in the same city (but on a different continent this time!).
One of the most unique experiences was being invited to a hamam by Rasheeta, the "riad mom" while I was there. Three other girls and I accompanied two Moroccan women to the local bath house where everyone in the community visits once a week for a deep cleaning and exfoliation. The experience was unlike anything I've ever been exposed to...the closest thing I can equate it to would be going to a spa where everyone in your neighborhood visits once a week and performs the treatments themselves with black soap and a special mitt that sloughs skin like you would not believe. It also offered a really unique glimpse into the relationships between women in Morocco.
One of my favorite parts of traveling is getting to know the culture through their food. Morrocan food is phenomenal: tanjeens, koufta, couscous, mint tea, freshly squeezed orange juice, kababs...yum. Good thing my next stop is the camino--I have some extra calories to burn.
Between the incredibly forward advances from men, 97 degree heat, and cultural differences, Marrakech really pushed me out of my comfort zone. I don't think I'd last long here, but I'm so glad I decided to add this leg to my trip. It has been both an eye-opening and humbling experience.
Now I'm off to catch a train to Leon--Onward to the camino! I'm looking forward to a less hectic pace of traveling, getting out of urban areas, and savoring some alone time. Essentially, I'm heading from one extreme to the other.
I hope your respective summers are off to a splendid start!
Au revoir and salaam,
Kelsey
The riad experience was amazing; you are treated like family by the owners, and most of the guests hang out in a central open-air courtyard talking, drinking mint tea, and smoking shisha. We had a really fun group of twenty-somethings from all over the world: Canada, Brazil, Australia, New Zealand, Germany, Slovokia, and the US. We all had dinner together both nights I was there and stayed up talking and laughing far later than I should have when I had to catch a 8:00 flight back to Madrid. Two Canadian women from Quebec I befriended just happen to be in Santiago de Compostela around the same time I'll be passing through on the camino, so we're hoping to meet up again while all of us are in the same city (but on a different continent this time!).
One of the most unique experiences was being invited to a hamam by Rasheeta, the "riad mom" while I was there. Three other girls and I accompanied two Moroccan women to the local bath house where everyone in the community visits once a week for a deep cleaning and exfoliation. The experience was unlike anything I've ever been exposed to...the closest thing I can equate it to would be going to a spa where everyone in your neighborhood visits once a week and performs the treatments themselves with black soap and a special mitt that sloughs skin like you would not believe. It also offered a really unique glimpse into the relationships between women in Morocco.
One of my favorite parts of traveling is getting to know the culture through their food. Morrocan food is phenomenal: tanjeens, koufta, couscous, mint tea, freshly squeezed orange juice, kababs...yum. Good thing my next stop is the camino--I have some extra calories to burn.
Between the incredibly forward advances from men, 97 degree heat, and cultural differences, Marrakech really pushed me out of my comfort zone. I don't think I'd last long here, but I'm so glad I decided to add this leg to my trip. It has been both an eye-opening and humbling experience.
Now I'm off to catch a train to Leon--Onward to the camino! I'm looking forward to a less hectic pace of traveling, getting out of urban areas, and savoring some alone time. Essentially, I'm heading from one extreme to the other.
I hope your respective summers are off to a splendid start!
Au revoir and salaam,
Kelsey
Monday, June 21, 2010
Moving on to Morocco
In flying to Marrakech I was granted my first RyanAir experience. No assigned seating, strict carry on luggage requirements, and ridiculous in-flight shinanigans...But dang is it cheap: $42 round trip from Madrid to Marrakech.
In Morocco, I'm staying at Riad Massin just northwest of the main city plaza called Place Jemaa El Fna. Riads (houses constructed around a central courtyard) are a unique lodging option in Morocco. Where I'm staying, for 12 euro (or 120 dirham, the local currency) per night I'm in a room with three other women; the set up is similar to a college dorm room with bunk beds and a shared bathroom for four of us. The entire riad is decorated in beautiful art, carved borders around the ceilings, intricate tile work, and local lanterns. Included at this riad are sheets/towels, unlimited mint tea, and one shisha per day. I love how different the inclusions are abroad :)
I'm really wishing I had brought long pants; even though I brought a pashmina to cover my chest and shoulders, when walking out and about, I've already gotten some angry looks from women and shocked looks from men for having bare caves below my knee-length dress. I'm trying to decide if I need to go purchase some cheap pants to rectify this issue...most things I read had made it seem as though capri-length pants and long skirts were okay if shoulders were covered. I'm just nervous about appearing disrespectful.
After a quick nap to recharge (since i've been up since 4:00am) i am going to head out to the city center and battle through my nerves about being out and about as a thoroughly American-looking girl. Wish me luck!
I'll post again tomorrow so my mom and dad know I'm alright :)
Hasta luego,
Kelsey
In Morocco, I'm staying at Riad Massin just northwest of the main city plaza called Place Jemaa El Fna. Riads (houses constructed around a central courtyard) are a unique lodging option in Morocco. Where I'm staying, for 12 euro (or 120 dirham, the local currency) per night I'm in a room with three other women; the set up is similar to a college dorm room with bunk beds and a shared bathroom for four of us. The entire riad is decorated in beautiful art, carved borders around the ceilings, intricate tile work, and local lanterns. Included at this riad are sheets/towels, unlimited mint tea, and one shisha per day. I love how different the inclusions are abroad :)
I'm really wishing I had brought long pants; even though I brought a pashmina to cover my chest and shoulders, when walking out and about, I've already gotten some angry looks from women and shocked looks from men for having bare caves below my knee-length dress. I'm trying to decide if I need to go purchase some cheap pants to rectify this issue...most things I read had made it seem as though capri-length pants and long skirts were okay if shoulders were covered. I'm just nervous about appearing disrespectful.
After a quick nap to recharge (since i've been up since 4:00am) i am going to head out to the city center and battle through my nerves about being out and about as a thoroughly American-looking girl. Wish me luck!
I'll post again tomorrow so my mom and dad know I'm alright :)
Hasta luego,
Kelsey
Saturday, June 19, 2010
First days in Madrid
Ah, airports. We met again to revisit our love-hate relationship. Security checkpoints, customs, baggage claim, angry travelers...but your presence usually means I'm off to somewhere fun. I suppose your chaotic environment is an acceptable imposition for the reward of two months of adventure.
In typical Kelsey fashion, I chatted up my neighbors and flight attendants on both flights; being personable and kind to strangers has it's rewards, such as unexpected networking with other Washingtonians, extra airplane snacks, and (multiple) free Spanish beers from a very kind stewardess. Did you know that wine and beer now cost $6.00 a pop on international flights?! Major bummer. But yay for good manners paying off--thanks, mom and dad!
Watching the sun set over the west from 35,000 ft in the air was pretty spectacular. The symbolism wasn't overlooked either: ending one day and starting anew in another place...albeit jet-lagged.
Navigating from Madrid's airport to the center of the city on the metro was a breeze (thanks to my friend Lindsay's fool-proof directons). On one of the trains two men standing next to me called all of the passengers to attention, serenaded us for several minutes, then vanished at the next stop. I seemed to be the only one who was amused though.
Fun fact for all my public health friends: condoms are sold at the metro stations in dispensers with messages about safe sex. What an interesting place for sexual health outreach! I've also seen several smoking cessation social marketing ads on busses, but I'm afraid those are widely overlooked; everyone in this city seems to have a cigarette in their hand at all times.
Meeting many of Lindsay's coworkers from the American School of Madrid has been really fun; they're a great group of teachers who know how to have a good time ;) There was lots of yelling and excitement as we all watched the US/Slovenia game on Friday (which the US won 3-2, in my opinion!)
I've spent quite a bit of time wandering around town, and I'm pleasantly surprised to say that I feel like I have my bearings in Madrid. Every time I turn the corner, I stumble upon another immaculately maintained public garden or a beautifully ornate building. The sights and sounds are like candy for the senses.
The most interesting thing to me though is the pace and style of living. This city doesn't sleep! Siestas from 2-4:00ish, dinner at 11:00 or midnight, and the nightlife continues well past sunrise. The streets are so much different than the States; cars compete for space on narrow one way roads and many of the calles are strictly for pedestrians. Cars aren't needed to get by here, as the intensely urban enviroment provides all you'd need within a quick walk from your apartment. Specialized food stores, green space, shopping, entertainment, public transit...I think these Europeans are on to something.
I think that wraps up my general overview for starters; I'll post again soon to recount some more specific amusing happenings. As for now, I'm succumbing to another wave of jet lag.
Hope you are all having a wonderful weekend!
Abrazos,
Kels
In typical Kelsey fashion, I chatted up my neighbors and flight attendants on both flights; being personable and kind to strangers has it's rewards, such as unexpected networking with other Washingtonians, extra airplane snacks, and (multiple) free Spanish beers from a very kind stewardess. Did you know that wine and beer now cost $6.00 a pop on international flights?! Major bummer. But yay for good manners paying off--thanks, mom and dad!
Watching the sun set over the west from 35,000 ft in the air was pretty spectacular. The symbolism wasn't overlooked either: ending one day and starting anew in another place...albeit jet-lagged.
Navigating from Madrid's airport to the center of the city on the metro was a breeze (thanks to my friend Lindsay's fool-proof directons). On one of the trains two men standing next to me called all of the passengers to attention, serenaded us for several minutes, then vanished at the next stop. I seemed to be the only one who was amused though.
Fun fact for all my public health friends: condoms are sold at the metro stations in dispensers with messages about safe sex. What an interesting place for sexual health outreach! I've also seen several smoking cessation social marketing ads on busses, but I'm afraid those are widely overlooked; everyone in this city seems to have a cigarette in their hand at all times.
Meeting many of Lindsay's coworkers from the American School of Madrid has been really fun; they're a great group of teachers who know how to have a good time ;) There was lots of yelling and excitement as we all watched the US/Slovenia game on Friday (which the US won 3-2, in my opinion!)
I've spent quite a bit of time wandering around town, and I'm pleasantly surprised to say that I feel like I have my bearings in Madrid. Every time I turn the corner, I stumble upon another immaculately maintained public garden or a beautifully ornate building. The sights and sounds are like candy for the senses.
The most interesting thing to me though is the pace and style of living. This city doesn't sleep! Siestas from 2-4:00ish, dinner at 11:00 or midnight, and the nightlife continues well past sunrise. The streets are so much different than the States; cars compete for space on narrow one way roads and many of the calles are strictly for pedestrians. Cars aren't needed to get by here, as the intensely urban enviroment provides all you'd need within a quick walk from your apartment. Specialized food stores, green space, shopping, entertainment, public transit...I think these Europeans are on to something.
I think that wraps up my general overview for starters; I'll post again soon to recount some more specific amusing happenings. As for now, I'm succumbing to another wave of jet lag.
Hope you are all having a wonderful weekend!
Abrazos,
Kels
Thursday, June 17, 2010
¡Hasta luego, los Estados Unidos!
After a hearty breakfast prepared by my wonderful father (happy early father's day, pops!), I'm off to catch my plane. First to Dallas, then on to Madrid!My boots are laced, my pack is on my back, and my iPod is loaded with tunes and podcasts :)
¡Vamos a España! I'll do my best to update again before I head to Marrakech.
Have a great weekend everyone,
Kelsey
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
On the eve of the leave...
After lots of planning and packing, I'm ready to embark on an adventure! I'll be taking off from SeaTac tomorrow morning at 11:00am, and after a full day of travel, I'll land in Madrid on Friday at 10:00am (which will be around 1:00am PST). Fact: this Pacific Northwesterner is going to melt in the Moroccan heat next week...
I'm usually not big on "omens" and the like, but when I stumbled upon this while I was running near the capitol last weekend I was a bit taken aback.
I took it to mean I'm doing the right thing and this trip is what I really need right now. Although I must say, I never found out the actual reason why Spain's flag was flying alongside the US and Washington State flags...
Since I will be my own personal pack mule for the entire duration of my time in Europe, the goal was to keep my pack at 25lbs or below. Let's just say that's been a challenge --right now it's hovering around 29-30lbs.
The things that are really holding me back from "making weight" are essentials that I just can't leave behind: contact solution, voltage adapter, Spanish phrasebooks, my guidebook for the Camino... For once in my life the issue isn't too many shoes :)
I can't even begin to predict what traveling solo is going to be like, but I do know that this trip is going to open my eyes to new things and force me to grow. I'm sure it will be exhilarating at times and painful at others, but I'm looking forward to the journey :)
Wishing you all a wonderful summer filled with adventure!
Mil abrazos,
Kels
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Counting Down!
In nine days, I'll be touching down in Madrid with nothing but myself and my pack. I've been oscillating between excitement and anxiety, which is exactly what I expected to feel as my departure date neared. This is going to be one hell of an adventure!
------------------------------
June 17th - June 21st | Madrid, Spain
June 21st - June 23rd | Marrakech, Morocco
June 24th | Head North to León, Spain to begin hiking El Camino de Santiago
June 24th - July 16th | Walk the second half of El Camino de Santiago, from León out to Cape Finisterre (Larger version of map)
July 17th | Head back to Madrid to meet my mom
July 19th - July 21st | Madrid with mom
July 21st - July 23rd | Paris, France with mom
July 23rd - July 30th | ITALY: Venice, Florence, and Rome with mom
July 30th - August 5th | GREECE: Athens, Santorini (?), Mykonos (?) with mom
August 5th | Fly back to the States
------------------------------
Not sure exactly how often I'll be able to update--particularly while I'm on the Camino--but I'm going to give it my best shot. My goal for now: ensuring that my pack is under 25 pounds for this seven week journey! (For those of you who have travelled with me, you know that is going to be a challenge!)
Wishing you all health and happiness!
- Kels
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